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Samsonite79

San Francisco, CA

Samson Kwong, Technician, is born and raised in San Francisco and has been with Popular Mechanix for three years. He went to San Jose State University to purse a BS degree in Computer Engineering which turned out to be the ideal background for modern automotive repair, so it was natural to attend Wytoech (aka Sequia Institute) of Fremont for Automotive theories and concepts to enter the field of automotive repair. Samson has earned his Master Technician certification from the National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE) by passing his exams in all 8 areas. On his free time, Samson can be found tuning and modifying his track driven car in his garage or he could be found driving on world class tracks such as Laguna Seca and Infineon Raceway and am a proud member of NASA (National Auto Sports Association), NC racing (Northen California Racing) and SCCA (Sports Car Club of America).


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Questions & Answers | Problem Reports | Reviews | Comments

Question Answered: 

Hi, I don't know if I can give you an exact number but here in San Francisco,CA it might range from $2500-$3500 for a Volvo rebuilt transmission installed. It's usually a 12-14 labor hour job (conservatively). The Volvo rebuilt transmission cost about $1000 easily. Your better off using a Factory Volvo rebuilt because your spending a good amount of money to have the shop remove the transmission, you might as well put in a properly rebuilt transmission. Good luck -Sam


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Question Answered: 

Hi, Sounds like the ignition lock cylinder assembly has failed internally, you will need to bring the XC90 in to a Volvo Specific repair facility or a Volvo approved locksmith to remove this lock cylinder. It might take 3-5 days for Volvo to build your lock cylinder by VIN code. If your XC90 is located in San Francisco, give us a call and we're be more than happy to serve you. We're also AAA Approved Repair Facility, so you can have AAA tow the XC90 to us. Good luck, -Sam


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Question Answered: 

The fuse is located under your drivers' brake pedal area, you gotta remove two T25 screws and remove the plastic panel. You should see a set of fuses there, I know it's an odd place for a accessory outlet fuse, and it's a 15amp. Here is a screen shot of the wiring diagram: http://s53.photobucket.com/albums/g53/Samsonite79/?action=view¤t=Untitled.png


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Question Answered: 

Hi, sounds like you got two different issues. One the Thermostat might be stuck shut causing the coolant to stay in place thus the temp guage isn't moving when cold or overly hot. Make sure your coolant fan comes on around 105*C and make sure your heater core isn't cracked or blown (you can smell coolant through your heater&A/C vents. Next problem your transmission might be suffering the famous Volvo 2001 curse at over 200k miles. Try flushing the transmission properly with the correct fluid: if your dipstick is all the way on the bottom and a small little thing, it'll use the special Volvo specific transmission fluid or a Mobil1 JWS-3309 Synthetic fluid equivalent. If it's the square/rectangular and pretty long it'll the standard Dextron III fluid you find anywhere at your automotive parts store. (Just a warning flushing will not solve your issue 100% but it's worth a try to get some more life from your ailing transmission) Good luck, Sam


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Question Answered: 

If your talking about the Front brake pads, You gotta remove the anti-rattle spring with a screw driver then there are two 7mm hex bolts behind the black rubber cap for the caliper. To remove the front caliper itself from the caliper holder there is two 15mm bolts closer to the CV Axle; this is usually only for the replacement of the disc rotor. Remember to add some red loc-tite to the two 15mm bolts after removal. Good luck, -Sam


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Question Answered: 

It sounds like your S60 is suffering a CANbus fault, the DIM (driver's information module) aka the dash lights and gauges. So basically you need to bring the S60 in to a Volvo specific repair facility. They will need to scan the onboard diagnostic and properly pinpoint the issue. Most of the time it's a simple fix as to resetting the CANbus network or replacing the expensive DIM, which will require a Volvo specific software to activate the unit. Lastly worst case, you gotta replace the CEM (central electronic module) the "brains of the S60" as well but that's rare to fail. I've replaced a fair share of these modules so best of luck -Sam


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Question Answered: 

Readiness on a 04' XC90 isn't as bad as the older 98 XC70, start by: Start the engine and accelerate to approximately 1500-2000 rpm to warm it up, then drive for 5 minutes at 45-50mph on a stretch of freeway (about 5-10 miles on clear road, maybe more) Stop the vehicle and remain at idle in drive for 1 minute. Resume another 45-50mph and drive for 5-10 minutes lastly stop the vehicle and remain at idle in drive for 60 seconds. Park the vehicle and turn off the engine. Repeat again if you want to ensure proper readiness. It might take a few tries. Last tip: Make sure you TURN OFF THE A/C and not on Defrost mode, it will not perform the readiness drive cycle if your A/C is cycling. Good luck, -Sam


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Question Answered: 

Double check if you got enough transmission fluid in there first. :-) Have the engine running at operating temperature and in park, then check the rectangular yellow dipstick. Best of luck, Sam


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Question Answered: 

There are quite a few possibilities for your problem but from what your describing this is what I would do: Pull DTC (diagnostic trouble codes) off the DLC A2 (it's located under the hood next to the washer solvent neck, take the little wire and plug that into the hole then press the button once, watch and count the blinking LED, there are 3 numbers in the set with a pause in between.) With that said, if you get a code 1-2-1, then it's your air mass meter that's causing the hesitation or stalling while accelerating. If not, hook up a fuel gas gauge and measure the fuel pressure make sure it's about 35 psi, if it's ridiculous low then fuel pump might be failing or weak. We'll start with that first, good luck, -Sam


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Question Answered: 

I would check the passenger side temperature blend door damper motor and/or linkage, see if that moves while you operate the temp. knob. The blend door motor is located on the passenger side next to the heater core area: Remove the carpeted plastic next to the center console . Usually a simple calibration by a Volvo specialized shop with VIDA (Volvo's dealership scan tool) would fix this issue but sometimes the linkage breaks or the motor fails. Oh while your in there, check the cabin air filter. :-) -Sam


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