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Either an ABS sensor has gone bad (not as likely) or, an ABS ring has a crack in it and needs to be replaced (more likely with age of vechicle). Rust on the end of half shaft expands and cracks these sometimes. ABS system sees crack and throws the code. You have to check each one and find the toothed ring on which ever wheel has this crack and then replace. These problems are probably separate but, if you fix one the other will be easier to define.
look at the valve covers, some are held in place with 6 bolts some with 3. Do one at a time keeping the work area very clean. Clean valve cover and have clean hands when putting gasket in. Then, just reverse removal process. If you are unsure see a mechanic. I am assuming your problem is oil showing up around the spark plugs.
If you have no engine codes being shown you can try to remove the mass airflow sensor and clean it with either mass airflow cleaner or electronic parts cleaner. When the MAS gets dirty it disrupts proper air fuel mix and is a pain to recognize as the problem because you don't always get an engine code for awhile. So clean the 2 wires with the spray completely but gently. Then reinstall and see what happens. Also, when check engine light blinks like this, it could be that another coil is going bad and get it read to find out which one.
If it is a greenish-color grease is it probably coming out of the intermediate shaft or cv joint boot on the halfshaft. The boots don't have to be cracked. If a clamp that is supposed to be holding it in place is missing the rotation can spin the grease out and it will spray all in this area.
Probably no more than $20 to $40 dollars for each if you do it yourself. I usually do them in pairs but if you choose you can do just the one side. You will need a ball joint press to do the job. Some auto parts stores loan them out for free with a tool deposit that is refunded in full upon return of tool. Just factor $20 to $40 dollars per tire.
Don't ask the garage. Go to autozone parts store or napa auto parts and get it read again. Then post what it says on the receipt they give you. They read for free.
When you jack the car up, you might as well pull on the tire top and bottom to make sure ball joints are ok too. Pull on tire at 9 and 3 o'clock positions to check tie rods as well. Can't hurt to do if you are raising the car to check tires out anyway.
Sounds like your fusable link may be shot. Follow the lead from the alternator back to the main engine fuse box or follow the red wire from the battery back to same location. These 2 wires meet at the fusable link which is usually located on the side in a small compartment on the main engine fuse panel. If it is burnt out (it is usually covered so you can't see if it is) usual symptoms are battery goes dead. Jumping the battery will restart the car but the battery will just drain out again. To test: After charging battery use a voltmeter and touch black to black on battery and red to red with car off. Then touch black to battery and red to wire connecting at the alternator. Volts should be about equal. If reading is 0 fusable link needs replaced. This is the only link between alternator and battery causing inability to recharge. If you get a read equal to battery alternator is probably bad.
Without seeing it, I would try the one higher off ground level. You want the one that pupms fluid back to the reservoir....perhaps trial and error.
On the average most get 105 amp alternators.