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They come in several different size's, length's and standard and metric. Your best bet is to take them all off and to the parts store with you. It's possible the lines won't come loose from their adjoining connections and you will have more parts to buy so this way you'll get the right parts and only make one trip.
It does happen. If the truck is in a safe area and the emergency brake set, have someone move the shiftier and lay at the side looking under the truck you may be able to see the cable missing the lever and push it yourself one click at a time until you can get it into park or neutral so it can start. If you were comfortable doing that after it starts move it one more click to drive and you can drive to truck to your repair shop for repair saving you a tow bill unless you have AAA then just have it towed for repair.
The intake manifold has to come off along with the rest of the equipment on top of the engine. Once it's all laid out of the way you can access the cover bolts. If you are mechanically inclined it should be no problem for you to remove the cover's and replace the tube seal's and gasket's. If there's any oil around the spark plugs remove it and replace the plug boot. If you have any doubt you can perform this repair it's is money well spent having it repaired then to cause a oil leak on to the exhaust manifolds and catch the car on fire. Just be sure and reseal the gaskets and allow nothing to get in between the covers and the sealing area.
Yes, the BCM and PCM store the key code should they not match it will need to go thru the relearn procedure normally needing a repair shop or locksmith's help.
Basically, Yes unless they admit they made a mistake. Any diagnostic work they need to do to prove out the new part they installed should not cost you anything. The same as if they need to replace the part if defective. Should that part be working correctly and replacing it did fix the problem even for a short while it's possible anther part in the system failed. It's very unlikely but in my 35 years of owning my shop it does happen. Take your receipt into them or another KIA dealer and have the part checked only. Tell them you are not going to pay for them to check their part and repair work. Keep in mind these people did their very best to fix your car and if they are reliable they will honor a defective part. It's also possible something came loose and it's a simple fix, no one is perfect. Should they tell you it's another problem and it's your car so your responsibility just thank them and take your vehicle to a certified Repairpal or AAA repair center and have the system checked, be sure you tell them about the new part.
Some vehicle's do mostly Euro's. Tech info on a normal 2007 Ram doesn't show it having a brake pad warning sensor or fluid level sensor. Look in your owner's Manuel for the correct name of the light that's on, It's possible another system is causing the sound.
Hi, I'll make just a quick guess since there aren't many details with your post but normally cars don't just sit and idle for 20 minutes at a time. Your service manual should tell you to shut your engine off while stuck in a traffic jam but we all know that your never just sitting for 20 minutes your just inching along. The radiator in a car is just a heat exchanger used to cool your motor while driving down the road with air flowing thru it. When your stopped with no air flow there are cooling fans that the engine computer turns on and off to keep air coming thru your radiator. Your engine being small and holding just a little under 6 qt's of antifreeze can't circulate the coolant fast enough at idle for long periods of time to cool it properly, so once the engine controller see's the temp raising with the fan's on and even sometimes off it will automatically raise your base idle several hundred RPM to speed the flow of coolant thru the radiator by spinning the water pump faster. I hope this anwers your question.
No. The tire and control system is designed for curb height to be the same all around. You could limp it a few miles to a shop but not at speed above 35. I'm not surprised of the cost mostly in parts the labor is only a little higher for a Saab. You could shop around an get it done for a couple of hundred less but your not getting the same job. pay less and get less.
You decribe two different systoms and it decribes two different problems both of which are enough for me to send you looking for a shop. Your first is a bad tire they start to wobble at 15 and normally quit at 25. The other would be your left front caliper holding the rotor to tight. This could be caused by several problems. The first most common problem would be the right front caliper not working properly and causeing the left to try and lock the rotor, second could be the left side rotor warpped causing heat buildup in the left rotor. There are a few other items that can do this but thoses are the most likely. You need to seek out a good shop and let them put an eye on the problems.
Hello,If the light says "CHECK ENGINE" and is yellow, that is a computer generated warning to you have it has found a problem in the systems. If the light is red shut your engine off ASAP and get it towed to your repair shop. You stated you could see spark out of a wire. First do not touch it, modern vehicles spark at between 120K to 165K volts and you will not soon forget it. The control systems monitor engine rpm down to the milli-second with a wire shorted it can tell the speed of the rotation from one cylinder not firing. The ECM will then turn on the yellow or org. lite to info you there is a problem that needs repaired and what cylinder it is. I would sujest you check your repairpal.com listing for a shop close to you, should that fail call AAA for your local AAA Approved repair center. If you don't have a office close you ask your friends and such to put you on to their shop and always check with the BBB before taking your vehicle into an unkown shop. Good Hunting.