More About Points »
It sounds like the drive belt has come off or has broken. The drive belt would turn the power steering pump, the alternator, and the water pump. Check to see if the drive belt is missing.
Rear brakes, pads,rotors, and sensor / $605.00. This is with factory Zimmerman rotors and factory Jurid pads. Parts & Labor Coolant flush using 6 quarts of BMW coolant / $170.00 Parts & Labor Brake fluid flush / $120.00 Parts & Labor BG Power steering service / $170.00 Parts & Labor We would not had recommended a carbon depletion at 31k unless there was an issue with how the engine was performing and our diagnosis would have lead to that recommendation. We would had recommended adding a can of BG 44k at that mileage. If used regularly, every 7500 miles, a carbon depletion may never be needed. This is true only in cars with low mileage and cars getting regular oil changes at 5k or sooner. No 10k oil changes, that will lead to a diagnosis of a carbon depletion service sooner than it is needed. If a carbon depletion is needed it cost $250.00 Transmission is "LIFETIME FLUID", but it should be checked to make sure it is performing like it is supposed to be.
An engine motorvac or carbon depletion are the best choices. This service must be done at a shop with the right equipment to perform the service. If you are looking for something to put into the gas tank and get results from, BG44K is the best choice.
More than likly the noise is coming from the area where the brake pad meets the rotor. The old pads have been worn in in certain direction and now have a "cut" on them that would be the same as the worn rotor you had taken off. The noise may go away after some miles of driving as the pad wears to fit the new rotor. Also it could be the brake pad material does not match the the brake rotor material. Brakes are now made to be a match set in alot of cases. The pad material will embed into the rotor. This keeps the brakes quite and keeps the brakes cooler and last longer. An inspection of the brakes would be needed to determine if there is a safety issue with the brakes
The oil pressure warning light comes on when the oil pressure drops below a certain point. This varies from vehicle to vehicle, but is usually somewhere below 10psi which is a dangerously low pressure. If there is a wring problem this can also cause the light to come on, but this is usually intermittent or just on all the time. What needs to be done is to connect a good pressure gauge to the engine and see what the oil pressure is. If it is actually low this can be caused by a problem with the oil pump, or possibly excessive wear in the engine. If the oil pressure is OK, then diagnosis needs to be done to find why the oil light is coming on when it shouldn't.
Without looking at it I could not confirm the diagnosis. A leaking intake manifold gasket could cause a lean condition and the check engine light to come on. However it would seem that a vehicle that new should be covered under a warranty, Either the vehicle manufacturers warranty, or the federal emissions warranty. I would suggest looking into the warranty, and if you do fall outside of that, then $270 is about what I would expect that kind of repair to cost.
If the fan comes on at all, then the realy is good. The fan speed is controlled by a transistorized controller (called a "linear controller") which is controlled by the A/C control assembly. The diagnostics are not really simple and would require a good understanding of these types of systems and good diagnostic/ repair info. Generally this would be a job for a technicain with good diagnostic skills.
If the "smoke" has a sweet smell with it then it could be steam cause by a leak from the heater core or coolant hoses in your heater. Usually this fogs up the interior glass as well as leaving a slimy film. This can leave your cooling system low on coolant decreasing the output from your heater.
A thermostat is used to regulate the temperature of your engine. It is not uncommon to find these malfunctioning and causing the symptom you've described. Also if the cooling system is low on coolant it can create a similar condition because if there is a big enough pocket of air then the coolant won't circulate to the heater or sensor for the gauge. I would recommend checking the engine coolant level. If it is OK then see a qualified technician to have an evaluation of your condition.
Your transmission is shifted via a cable from the shift lever to the transmission. It sounds like either the cable is broken or has become disconnected from one end or the other.