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Are the bleeder screws at the top of the calipers or the bottom?
There is a wiring harness that passes through the firewall (on each side) just behind the strut towers, and below the windshield. The body seals fail and water that is coming off of the windshield flows right past the connector and into the car when the seal fails.
Jason Krenovi has a transmission shop in Beaver, the back side of the 400 block of third street. His dad owns Beaver Tire. I'd recommend him to take a look at this for you. There are some transmissions today that can lose reverse because of an electronics failure and yours is one of those. I do suspect that you are likely needing a repair, failure of the reverse band is quite common.
Have someone pull codes from all of the modules. Loss of communication, and or system voltage codes that could be setting and which modules have those codes stored would give a sense of direction for diagnostics. Some important information for the shop would also be how far (long) does the car have t be driven in order for an event to be likely to occur. Does it go away on its own or is cycling the key necessary? Is there anything else that stops working correctly? (I.E. power windows, power mirrors)
The most common cause for "unintended acceleration" is a misapplication of the gas pedal instead of the brake. If the brake pedal is truly being applied the brakes can hold the car against the engine's attempt to make it move even if the gas pedal is floored. Common errors can be hitting both the brake and throttle at the same time and that can allow the brake to not be fully applied and then the car can move unintended. Another common failure is the floor mat or other items can be underneath the brake pedal limiting its travel while being on top of the throttle depressing it. Most manufacturers now use de-throttling strategies in the event that the onboard computers detect both pedals being applied.
The brake pedal going to the floor has nothing to do with P0174 (too lean bank #2)which would be associated to the check engine light being on which you didn't report as currently being the case and may be a historical code. The ABS and traction control lights being on typically indicate that there is a fault in the ABS system and you will have to access that and retrieve codes from it to get started. CarMD. That company markets and sells their device in a manner that is very insulting to honest, hard working technicians. The scan tools that support your ABS system correctly and allow a shop/technician to diagnose and repair your car efficiently cost around $3000 to over $8000 depending on options and coverage. With the way CarMD markets their toy it would be fitting for their customers to not have any people trained and qualified to service their cars.
Does the tensioner move freely or is it binding?
Where do you stand with this, has it turned the Check Engine light back on yet or else completed enough monitors to test? When we see not ready for testing it means that either the car hasn't been driven in a way to complete the monitors which is likely why you have asked about the drive cycle, or else there is a failure on the car that is preventing tests to run which hopefully will mature into a code and that would give you a sense of direction towards solving this.
If you posted the details I could give you an idea, but the fact that it is repaired, and if they went straight in, diagnosed and repaired the issue and got straight back out that equals talent and value. In business we can give the customers the best quality, the best price, or the best service. Pick any two.
When the TPMS light flashes it means the system is down. Usually it is a bad wheel sensor. If you do the retrain routine you might find one (or more) wheel(s) doesn't get the horn to blow. That would identify a sensor that isn't reporting. If you do have a bad sensor the tire will need broken down to replace it.