More About Points »
Oxygen sensors and/or too small cat converters. I had exact problem. I have same truck.
GMC Yukon 350 Yukon SLT 4wd 1999 Service 4wd light goes on. I ignore for a few weeks. Then today red light on NEUTRAL on 4wd switch comes on & Service 4wd light goes out. Now I have no 4wd. What happened? Big question I know. But could it be front actuator motor? All suspension is good, no wrecks nothing hit or rough riding did this. Truck drives fine otherwise. I do use 4wd so I will fix it. Is this the common problem? What else should I check? Help greatly appreciated. Any knowledge of replacing w/ posi-lok system?
Ok I have seperate battery tray. Can I just hook 2nd battery Neg to Neg and then positive to???? Do I have to buy these "kits"? They aint cheap. I have a 5.7L Vortec V8 350 4wd Yukon SLT 1999. The current battery has a Positive cable that leads to a juction box on fan cowling. Then cable goes out to Alternator and a 2nd cable goes over the fan cowling and across to the auto start. The "junction has another Positive "slot", can I just plug in there? Alternator? Nedd a bigger one? Mine has to be stock.
Current gap is .065. Called for .060. What is "too much" or "too little" gap amount? I plan on replacing, but do I need to w/ this gap?
Simple Rear Brake Question 99 GMC Yukon 5.7L Vortec 8thVIN/"R" 4wd Need rear brakes. Do I replace just shoes? or do I replace entire drum? Should I replace Drum and shoes and get a "kit" as well for replacing all of the springs, etc...?
5.7L V8 Auto 4wd trans (4L60E)Changed trans fluid/filter/seal/gasket. All good. Noticed rear TRANSFER case "dripping" fluid. Removed plug and "milky/red/white" fluid drains...only about 1/2 quart. I replaced w/ Dex6 Trans fluid. I put back in 2 qts. Tiny leak, ok a year ago, now the thing is "dripping". I get up in there and with a white cloth and cleaner, and clean the whole thing to find a hairline crack, and I mean a hairline on the back side above but not in one of the bottom bolt housings. I put EPOXY on it for now. Other than replacement, any ideas on sealing? Can I spot weld or solder it? Any ideas appreciated.
What tips, tricks or really good ideas do you have on removing distributor and re-installing new on. I know to disconnect all wires. Remove cap and rotor. Remove bolt, replace exactly Exactly back where I pulled it from. I read Chilton's so I have the basics down but there are always un-forseen issues not in books.
I got myself into a real pickle here... 99 GMC Yukon xlt V8 Vortec 350 Gas 4wd re-attaching distributor cap after replacing sensor. Must be original DISTRIBUTOR. The screw holds where the cap meets the distributor broke off. WTF? Yes the distributor cap is actually being held on by Duct tape. This is not good at all. There has to be a solution to this. Anyone have an idea on how to re-attach the Distributor Cap to Distributor? Both seem to be in good working order otherwise. Reagan
5.7 L 350 Vortec V8 Gas 99 GMC Yukon. 4WD. Verified transmission: 4L60E w/ deep pan. In '07 i had trans mission re-built (maybe not important) and so...I am replacing a solenoid inside the transmission pan/driver's side. So i must remove pan. NO DRAIN PLUG. NO PLUG Anywhere on the pan. I see the divot where the drain plug should be however no plug has been drilled, it is a smooth divot. Could this be? Could this be a new pan the mechanic put on? What gives? Any clues on where a plug would be? How do I drain then? Di I drill hole and plug later? Can I just loosen pan? Will 8 qts of Tran fluid dump everywhere? I loosened the plug on the rear transfer case and about a cup of milky red substance poured out and that was all. This can not be trans fluid..? Not near enough, however must I replace this fluid? With the blue or red transfer case fluid? Please help soon...drain plug issue most important.
P1345 says Crank and Cam position sensor correlation. What does this mean? other than they are not in correlation. I have been to mechanic, he hooks up "machine" to correlate them, yet check engine light/code stays on even when his computer says they are in synch. Do I need to replace Crank and/or Cam position sensors?