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I'm an adjuster. You should have no problem finding a front door or a rear one if needed because people keep Camry parts around for years as with some other cars they would have mashed. Best rosey scenario and I would do some time looking around for it is if you could find the doors the same color as yours. If you could do that, you're looking at about 1.0 hours to remove and replace each door and .5 to change out your lock cylinder (and trade off interior trim panels if the color or condition of them is an issue. If a shop buys the doors they usually ask for a 25% mark up for overhead aND PROFIT BUT IF YOU GET THEM YOURSELF THE SHOP MAY LET THAT SLIDE. Even though they're the same color from the factory you're not going to end up with the paint quality and match as if the shop paints the doors but then you may run into the shop wanting to "blend" into the fender and the quarter panel for an excellent color match. (That's approx 6-7hours at 62.00/ hr or $450.00 just for paint ) If it's a car you use to get from A to B then take some time and find those doors (call your agent and ask him for one of their adjusters names and numbers and he can probably give you the name of 5 to 10 salvage yards in your area) and have a shop slap them on. If you replace the doors and don't paint them I'm going to guess the doors around 175.00 each. Labor at $42.00/hr would be approx 2.5 x $42.00 or $105.00 = $455.00 to replace your 2 doors. The only X-fctor here is if any damage was done to the front hinge pillar or center "B" pillar where the ft door latches and the rear door hinges. Damaged pillars will not allow the doors to align to the rest of the car. Look for little flex areas there which sometimes are marked by a slight crack or star in the paint. You can take some simplemeasurements from the other side and compare them to the damaged side. I'm not an adjuster in your state and relying on any of this info is at your peril. the labor rates i quoted are from my state and the parts prices may vary from area to area a little. BEST OF LUCK!!! (Find those 2 used doors the same color as your car!)
Sounds like it may be your starter or its solenoid. Sometimes you can take a small ball peen hammer and hit the starter a few times. This may help loosen it up where the brushes are frozen inside the starter. Try that 3 or 4 times as it may help you to get it to a repair shop but it's a very temporary fix (if it works) and would get it to a shop and ask for a "remanufactured" or good quality aftermarket starter if that's what needs replacing. Will save you $$$ as they keep yours as a "core" and you'll have no "core charge" as the "refurbished" company will take yours for possible remanufacturing. The starter is at the bottom of the motor, shaped like a cylinder and is sometimes accessible from the top but most of the time you have to get underneath. DO NOT TAKE A CHANCE ON JACKING UP A CAR AND GETTING UNDER IT UNLESS YOU HAVE JACK STANDS OR SOMETHING AT LEAST AS STRONG, STABLE AND SOLID.
First, make darn certain all front lug nuts are tight! Secondly it sounds as if your tires are out of balance which is a very simple fix at your local tire store. The only other thing from a safety standpoint is to confirm you have no broken belts within your radial tires. Lastly, if you do not have ABS (anti lock brakes) then by locking up your brakes to the point that the tires "skid" can cause a flat spot on your tires where the rubber is essentially burnt off creating an ever so subtle flat spot. As your front tires (brakes) do 65% of your braking and the majority of the weight of your car is the ft area directly over the tires then that's another possibility. If it only shakes at higher speeds and not all of the time then you're probably dealing with one of the relatively minor issues above. Any tire shop should be able to track down the issue and resolve it witout too much expense or time.
Is the PCV Valve for this car on the valve cover or on the block? Where is it? On ft or rear side? Accessible from above or below? When removing the valve does any oil escape? Can a shade tree mechanic change this part? When changing ther PCV valve are there any other hoses or clamps recommended to be replaced?