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Check for cracked Distributor cap or check the magnets under the metal scissor parts in the bottom of the Distributor.
Get in the car and roll up all the windows. Turn the Ignition Key to on position--Do not turn to start--LISTEN VERY INTENTLY--you should hear a brief hum that lasts for 30 seconds or so--If not-your Electric fuel Pump has gone bad. Question: has the car been in an accident recently? If Fuel Pump needs replacing, take it to an authorized shop. It could be a deadly experience if you try to DIY. Or, if you hear the fuel pump come on, try changing your fuel and air filter and put some gas drier in the next time you fill up. Oh, Yeah, fill up at a different gas station in case you got some bad gas or gas with water in it!
First of all, you should have came on here asking for help before you did anything else. Hopefully, you have not damaged your Transmission. So-o-o, first let me explain something to you--The Transmission Fluid IS NOT A LUBRICANT, IT IS A COOLANT! THE TRANSMISSION LINES ARE RUN THROUGH A SECTION IN THE BOTTOM OF THE RADIATOR TO "COOL" THE FLUID. WHEN THE FLUID BEGAN TO LEAK OUT, IT CAUSED THE FLUID GOING BACK THROUGH THE RADIATOR TO BE EXTREMELY HOT, CAUSING THE RADIATOR TO BOIL OVER. Now, you have to find where the leak is coming from. Jack up your car--one wheel at a time-and put jack stands under each wheel so the car will not fall.(you may want to buy yourself an in-expensive floor jack that comes from Harbor Freight Tools with jack stands and a creeper for about $70.00)VERY IMPORTANT: MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A GOOD FRIEND TO HANG OUT WITH YOU IN CASE YOU SHOULD NEED HELP! START THE CAR AND LET IT RUN FOR A FEW MINUTES TO MAKE SURE THE JACK STANDS DON'T SLIP. THEN, ROLL UNDER THE CAR(DON'T FORGET YOUR SAFETY GLASSES AND GLOVES AND YOU MAY NEED A DROP LIGHT TO SEE WHERE THE LEAK IS. PROBABLY THE GROMMET WHERE THE FILL PIPE GOES IN! REPAIR THE LEAK AND THEN ADD FLUID ONE QUART AT A TIME--CAUTION--OVERFILLING IS JUST AS BAD AS BEING UNDERFILLED. DON'T PUT MORE THAN MAYBE A 1/2 QUART TILL YO KNOW THE LEAK IS FIXED! OH, YEAH, GET YOURSELF A BAG OF RAGS FROM HARBOR FREIGHT ALSO. GOOD LUCK!
Look in your Glove Box and find your Owners Manual for your car. Look in Index for "Maintenance Schedule". You will find it there. If not, call the BMW Dealership or local Auto Parts Store like Kragen, Checker, Pep Boys, etc,,,. Personally, though , unless I have been driving a lot of freeway miles at high speed, I usually change mine about every 7,500 miles on all my vehicles.
You may have got some bad or dirty gas. I would try a few things. First, have the pressure checked on your gas cap, then change your gas filter and air filter. If it still does it, change gas stations when you fill up next time and put a bottle or two(depending on size of your gas tank) of gas drier in the tank. If that doesn't work, go online and type in your browser: "How do I remove fuel injectors on 1989 Nissan Maxima SE", you should get a web site or link to go to. Then get on some old clothes and gloves. You will need some sockets and wrenches. Disconnect the negative battery cable and move it so it cannot accidently touch the negative battery post. VERY IMPORTANT: Remove the gas cap to relieve the pressure on the gas line, then remove the "fuse" for the electric fuel pump. Then follow the instructions you find on line, remove the injectors one by one, clean them real good with some carburetor cleaning fluid, replace the "o" rings and replace each one. Do not remove more than one at a time so you don't put one back in the wrong hole. If one of these doesn't fix your problem--then your electric fuel pump is probably going out and it most probably in the gas tank. DO NOT TRY TO DO THIS YOURSELF! GOOD LUCK, FRIEND!
That is what is supposed to happen. When you make the repairs, you then have to drive the vehicle 80 to 100 miles. The computer systems have to go through their little dance to make sure all is clear. After driving the miles--now--don't just go out and drive 100 miles. Just your daily routine will finally do it and the check engine light will go off. If not, put on your safety glasses and gloves, remove the negative AND positive battery cable. Leave off for about 20 minutes, then re-install cables--AFTER-the car has been driven 80 to 100 miles. good Luck!
My Friend, Listen, Don't Mess around with Exhaust Problems--What is you or one of your loved ones life worth?? Carbon Monoxide is Colorless, Tasteless, and has no smell! By the time it is ingested, it is too late--someone will die! Order your parts online with the gaskets! You save a few bucks! Take the parts to a reputable Muffler Shop and have them do the repairs! Not just any shop, because Muffler Shops know all the Smog and Exhaust Particle Laws, and if you are in California, they are really strict, even on the way they want the parts welded together! Now, you are going to have to pay some bucks for labor--because--you don't take Hamburger Meat & Buns to Denny's and ask them to make you a Hamburger, do you? O. K. I hope you do the right thing my friend!
You would be better off going to your local Dismantling Center(Junk Yard) They usually already have them removed or will remove one for you. It is usually a cable and is real easy to remove and replace. If you go to a shop--you are looking a about $65.00 for the cable and $85.00 to $100.00for labor. Go online first and look up either "Lexus Tutorials" and see if there is a Tutorial there showing how to R & R the Cable. If not, go online and go to "ERIC THE CAR GUY". He can definitely help you. It only takes less than an hour to remove and replace. Good Luck.
Forget the Fan Clutch and Belt for now--Take a bright flashlight and open the hood and look straight down on the "Water Pump Bracket"--That's what I said--The Fan and Clutch are attached to that Bracket--It really resembles a "Water Pump", but the "Water Pump" actually sets further back into the block. Anyway, I am speaking from experience--My Fan and Clutch began to wobble and I found that the "Bearing" that is usually in the "Water Pump" is actually in that "Bracket". Remove the Serpentine Belt by using a 14M socket and 3/8" Breaker Bar to move the Tensioner over so "Serpentine Belt" will come off easy. Take your hand and see if "Fan and Clutch" Wobble, If so, the "Bearing in the "Bracket is bad. If so, you don't need to remove the "Water PumP, just the "Bracket" A Diagram is under the Hood showing Routing of Serpentine Belt. Good Luck
Several things could cause the squealing. Did you use Brake Pad Lube when you replaced the Pads? Did you buy and install the "Hardware Kit" for the Calipers? Very important--Did you replace or have the Rotors turned? If not, I would be pretty sure that is where your squealing is coming from.