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San Carlos, CA
What could it be? It seems to be coming from the front?
Does the vehicle crank over? If not, recheck the connections on the battery posts. Sometimes there will be a black plastic film that is left on during installation or just a bad metal on metal connection will do it. Then check all fuses, something may have blown a fuse. Another place to check is real simple, is the positive cable on the positive post? A+ Japanese Auto Repair, San Carlos CA 94070
First off... you need to make sure that the catalytic converter that was installed was made by Infiniti. We have found that non-OE catalytic converter will ofter fail and set the check engine light. Secondly, check the oxygen sensor connectors and look for corrosion on the connectors, that may be causing the wrong signals to get back to the computer. Good Luck! - A+ Japanese Auto Repair, San Carlos CA 94070
Check all the fuses. If all good, you will have to bring car into a good local shop. Newer cars have electronic gas pedals and throttle bodies - one or both may have been damaged or needs to be reset. Good Luck - A+ Japanese Auto Repair, San Carlos CA 94070
Check all fuses first step. Check to make sure the cam and crank position sensors are plugged in (one each black connectors). I am assuming the vehicle is cranking over? I would pull the spark plugs see if they are flooded or damaged (if it is a used engine) You will probably find something simple.
Check to see if you have signal coming to the starter signal wire (the smaller of the two going to starter). Then check the starter signal fuse. There is also a starter relay in the mix but that would probably be the last place to look. Ignition key cylinders on these cars are known to cause issues. We have changed quite a few of them at our shop after testing them.
There may be two sensors by the clutch pedal if the vehicle has cruise control, take one more look. You can jump the connector with a paper click to test the sensor wire integrity. There is no clutch fuse but there is a starter siganl fuse, usually a 7.5 amps located under the dash. Is the car makes no noise at all.... suspect battery, battery connections, ignition key cylinder, (alara if it has one) clutch switch, or starter motor. Enjoy the weather in Hawaii!! LUCKY!
Alternator - 4PK-0775 - smallest Air Conditioning - 4PK-0850 middle Power Steerting - 4PK-0880 largest
I would look at the prior work that was completed... Start with the engine mount, maybe a bolt or nut worked it's way loose? To do a rear main seal you need to remove the transmission, axles, and a heck of a lot of nuts and bolts. People can make simple mistakes, just return back and ask them to look at the work again.
You will first have to remove the power steering and air conditioning belts. Lastly, the alternator belt. All of the adjusters for the belts will be slightly different but with the lower splash shield removed and a flash light, you should be able to see everything. Next, remove the negative battery terminal/cable from the battery (this will be insure that you don't cause a huge spark, blow a fuse, arch weld :) etc. At this point, there are two bolts that hold in the alternator and two connectors on the back, one plastic and one more that is a cable bolted on to the alternator. That should be that! Good Luck - BTW, you will have to reset your clock, radio presets, and if the stereo has a code lock out feature you will have to enter in the code to unlock it. A+ Japanese Auto Repair, San Carlos CA 94070
Do you have fuel pressure? When you crack a line open you should have fuel squirting out at you upon cranking. When you attempt to check this do have water or fire extinguisher handie, just in case. If you don't have fuel pressure you might take a look at the PGM-FI main fuel relay - that is a common problem. A+ Japanese Auto Repair, San Carlos CA 94070