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First, check all the vehicle grounds for clean tight contacts. Check your interior and underhood chassis to body grounds too. If they are all good, try switching the horn relay with a known good relay (usually another relay from the same electrical block with matching part number and from a system that works fine) and see if the horn works. If not, the horn itself is dead, replace it. The Temp Guage could be a wiring issue or a cluster issue. You will need a scanner to check that. If your gear selector indicator is on the cluster as well, I would say you have a cluster issue. If the gear selector indicator (PRNDL) is on the center console by the lever, then you may have a BCM issue or the switch on the transaxle is going out. The volume on the radio issue is in the radio. You just have a few different problems going on at once. Did your brake pad kits come with all the new anti-rattle hardware? If so, did you use it? Did you remove the old anti-rattle hardware and not put any back on? Could explain the noise. The shudder though, is a different issue. Did you re-surface the rotors (or at least have them checked for runout) when replacing the pads? If not, do so first. Also, check to make sure you tightened all the caliper bolts and something is not loose. Did you lubricate the calipers when putting them back on? Lots of things to check. Post results/answers to these questions here for more help if necessary.
Yes, you can, but you'll have to do wiring mods to hook everything up. There are lots of different guage packages available, but if the car did not come with the guages you want, you'll have to add the wiring yourself. The connector to the cluster might have some open spaces for additional wiring, but don't count on it. I can send you the factory wiring diagrams to make it a little easier if you shoot me an email at email@example.com.
I know what to do, but you won't like it. You need the cats replaced. Common problem. Unfortunately, they are sold as the whole Y-Pipe assy. The cats usually die due to contamination. Have you had any repairs done recently for oil or coolant being burned (i.e. Head gasket, intake leak, or valves)? Also, how does the engine run? Any misfires current or that were fixed recently? For the HO2s code P0137, check for exhaust leaks prior to that sensor. Make sure the sensor wires are not broken cut or melted. Pull your spark plugs and see if any are fouled. If you have access to a scan tool, do an injector balance test and look for lean conditions on the left bank. If these things check out normal (which they most likely will) replace the sensor when doing the cats.
Carbureted or Throttle Body Injected? What is the idle normally at? Remove the distributor cap and use a piece of metal to test the magnetic pick up. Rest the metal object on the center piece (the magnet) and see if there is any resistance when you pull away from it. If it is very weak or there feels like there is none at all, replace the distributor (or rebuild it with a new pole piece). This was a common problem in the early 2K's with early to mid 90's trucks. Also look for green or white "fuzz" type corrosion in the distributor.
They lied. The passlock sensor is part of the Anti-Theft system (or Immobilizer as they are called now). If the sensor is bad, the Theft Light will come on and the Cranking, Spark and Fuel delivery can all be disabled (depending on year/make/model).
You should pay nothing for programming since you don't have to program an ignition module. What symptoms are you having? Which motor? Any codes? Do you have a scan tool (not a code scanner) to check ECM inputs and outputs? Please post more info.
Try tapping on the coolant bottle with a rubber mallet near the bottom and see if the warning goes out. If it doesn't, remove the coolant bottle, wash it out with a garden hose sprayer, then fill it with hot water and shake it for a minute to clean out any garbage inside. The sensor is probably just sticking due to buildup. Once cleaned, it'll most likely work fine.
We had issues with the Steering Wheel Position sensors on a few of the earlier years, but not too many since 08. Have the truck scanned for codes and post the results here so we can assist in further diag.
Check your fuses first. You may have a blown ECM fuse. If it cranks, check the basics. You said you have 60+ psi fuel pressure, what about spark? Is there any? If there is spark, do a compression test. Unplug the Fuel Injector connector and use a noid light and see if there is pulse. If you have access to a scan tool (not just a code scanner) watch the engine RPM value while you are cranking the engine. Does it show RPM? You have lots of stuff to check.
What is the Code number? And please clarify your question. Thanks.