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El Sobrante, CA
Well, provided that you don't have a bad flasher, fuse, or ground, you need to replace the multi-function switch. This requires removing the steering wheel and getting into the column.
From the dealer they will be a few hundred bucks and will come with the speed sensors attached. Don't know about the aftermarket stuff. Each one will take an hour or less to change. Don't know what labor rates are where you live, but figure an hour per side.
If that is the 6 speed automatic trans, there are 2 engineering documents for that condition. 1 document has not even been released to the service community as of yet. Replace the transmission control module and program the latest calibration. Also, if you are mechanically inclined, replace the 3/5 wave plate and piston seal.
Any check engine light or codes stored? Does it miss all the time or just when cold, hot, under load? A little more info would be good for me to help. There have been coil issues and some injector issues. You will need a scanner (not just a code reader) for diag.
When you changed the coil pack, did you replace the Ignition Module? What were the actual Code numbers stored?
If that's the motor I think it is, it is the 5.7L "P" motor (8th digit of the vin will be a "P") If so, then it sounds like the Optispark Distributor is having it's common issue. The vent tube on those used to get plugged, and then the optical disc inside flexes on acceleration and causes this problem. You can try to clear this by removing the vent line and CAREFULLY shooting compressed air into the vent hole to remove the debris. If this does not work, then you'll have to remove the cap and rotor (and replace them) and clean the vent from the inside. Unfortunately, this means removing the water pump as well, and it should be replaced when you have it off. Bad design.
Give me the last 8 of the VIN # and I can get you the info in a PDF format. I can also get you the build information.
On the frame, in the rear of the vehicle underneath, behind the fuel tank.
If it is in "AUTO" mode, it will be ok for a while. The Auto mode allows for torque transfer only if a wheel or set of wheels starts slipping. It is always in 2-wheel drive until a wheel slips, then the xfer case is engaged. However, on dry pavement, this is not a great idea. Having the 4-wheel drive active on dry ground is not a great thing. There will be issues with low speed turning manuevers, and some extra whining noise at higher speeds. Also, your gas mileage can suffer. Can you get it to shift back out of Auto and back to 2WD? If not, get it diag before replacing any parts. It could be the xfer case control module, the encoder motor, or the switch, or even a wiring issue. Don't waste money throwing parts at it.
It is attached to the radiator support underneath. Remove the front air dam to see and replace it.