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El Sobrante, CA
Does it work from the master switch on the driver's door? If it won't work from either switch, then most likely it is the motor. If it works from one switch and not the other, it is probably the switch that is bad. If it only goes one direction (down or up) from a switch and not the other, probably a wiring (still could be a switch though)issue.
Make sure you have checked all the fuses. There is an ABS 60A fuse, a 40A BLOWER fuse, a 30A ELEK BRK fuse and a 10A A/C fuse in the underhood fuse block, and then there is a 10A HVAC B fuse in the rear fuse block. Also, the ground for the EBCM (G304, a chassis ground) has had problems. The ground is located on the frame rail, left hand side, under approximately where the driver door is. Make sure it is clean and tight. The other known problem with these is the B+ (batt voltage) Bus Bar in the underhood fuse box. Take a test light hooked to ground, turn the key on, and test ALL the fuses in both fuse blocks and check the ground. If you don't find a problem, check the power bus bar in the underhood fuse box. If that turns up nothing, then you have 2 unrelated problems that just happened to go at the same time (unlikely). Let me know what you find.
Yes, they can, and must, fail the vehicle for this problem. State laws. Bummer huh? Now, as far as the problem, if it does not come on with the key on engine off, most likely the bulb is out. You will have to remove the cluster and replace the bulb from the back of it.
If you have a 4.3 or 5.7 Litre engine (Silverado Classic Body Style), it is mounted on the back of the intake manifold in a brass fitting just under where the fuel lines come up from the transmission bell housing. If you have a 4.8, 5.3 or 6.0 Litre engine (Silverado New Body Style), it is under the left rear corner of the intake manifold and you have to remove the intake manifold to replace it.
Who replaced the hub? Private person or a shop? If it is a shop, take it back. Otherwise, it sounds like the person forgot to plug in (or replace all together) the wheel speed sensor.
Clear any codes first. You'll need a code reader (most will have a code clear option) or scanner. Then, turn the key to the start position and whether or not the truck cranks, let go of the key and leave it in the on/run position and the security light should flash for about 10-12 minutes then go back to solid. If you can't get this to happen, take it in to a shop to have it done.
I agree with pushrod, but I have one question... Did you recently put gas in the vehicle? If so, check that the gas cap is thightened at least 3 clicks. See if the light comes on again next time you drive it. If it does, go get it scanned for codes and diag.
Front? Rear? Left? Right? Where do you hear it from? Does it get better/worse when turning in a certain direction? More info please.
Same question as pushrod. Does this happen with the key removed? There is a switch to disable the dome lights, but with the key off and the driver door open, nothing else should stay on at all. If the key is removed and the driver door open and the radio is still on, you have a problem. Could be the door ajar input switch, could be the BCM, could be the RAP module, or could be wiring in any of the circuits to those parts.
It is built into the distributor. Not serviced seperately. If diag shows that it is actually bad, you need to replace the distributor. Is the check engine light on and if so, what code(s)?