More About Points »
Have vehicle scanned for codes. The low coolant light may not be related to the service engine light at all. Try taking a rubber mallet or hammer and tapping on the overflow tank (not too hard) around the sensor and see if it will unstick itself.
Maybe it is for your fog lamps (or what would be the fog lamps if that option isn't on the vehicle. Give me the last 8 of the vin and I can research it for you.
Does the vehicle run rough? Does the check engine light flash while the car is running? There are many "Possible Causes" of a P0300 Random Misfire code. I would reccommend taking it to a shop if you don't have access to some basic test equipment such as a scan tool (not a code scanner), DVOM, Fuel Pressure Guage, Ignition Analyzer, Injector Tester, etc. How did the old plugs look when you removed them? Fouling? Deposits? Wet? If they were fouled or had deposits, what color was the debris?
The newer GM diesel trucks do have a Diesel Exhaust Fluid system and a 5 gallon storage tank that you have to fill every 7500 miles or so. The DEF system injects the fluid downstream in the exhaust and it is used as a soot and emissions reduction agent in the DPF (equivalent to a catalytic convertor on a gasoline system). Your truck, however, does not have this system. They did not start that system until roughly 2010. If you have questions about your truck, feel free to email me at ChevyASE@aol.com, as I am the Diesel Tech at our dealership and will be happy to answer your questions regarding your GM diesel.
I am guessing that you are talking about a "No Crank" condition. If this is the case, you need to look carefully under the hood and see if the belt broke and of the wires or cables when it broke. If all the wiring under hood looks good, use a test light and see if you are getting signal to the starter "S" terminal (the purple wire) when you turn the key to the Crank position. If you are getting signal and it won't crank, see if you hear the starter engage (click). You could have a number of issues. Did the truck shut off when the belt broke? Did the Battery indicator come on when the belt broke? If you have signal to the starter and it isn't cranking, first try hitting it (not too hard) with a hammer while having someone try cranking it. If it still won't crank, try removing the belt and cranking it. If it still won't crank, then you have other issues. Please post the results of your tests here for further help.
Sometimes cleaning the solenoids doesn't always fix the problem. We replace a lot of them, and the actuators on the cams as well. Common problem. Is the Check Engine Light flashing when it is running rough? Have you scanned the codes again to see if you have misfire codes (P0300, P0301-P0304)? You may have solved the P0010 and P0011 problem and simply have misfires. If the 0010 and 0011 keep setting, take it to a shop. Not a DIY repair.
I don't get whether you mean the Reverse Lights or the Tail/T-Sig/Stop Lamps, but either way, your fuse box is the UBEC (Underhood Bussed Electrical Center). It will be on the left front fender under the hood. Just use a test light hooked to ground and check all the light fuses with the key on, engine off. If they all test good, then you may have another issue. Please post your results (and which lights you are asking about exactly) here if you need further help. There is no fuse block under the driver seat.
The sensors for the Tire pressure Monitor are mounted to the valve stems. You have to remove the tire from the rim to replace them. There is no circuit diagram. Before you go and have the sensors replaced, just try re-learning them. On your driver information center (the buttons that allow you to change the options and display the odometer, fuel usage and oil life, there is a setting that says "To relearn Tire Sensors, Press and hold (check mark key). When you do this, the horn will sound twice to let you know you are in learn mode (and the left front turn signal light will light up solid). Then, starting with the left front tire, let the air out slowly until the horn beeps once. The left front t-sig light will go out and the RF one will light. Do the same for the next 3 tires (the procedure is LF, RF, RR, LR). It will take about 8-10 lbs of air to do the learn, so make sure all the tires are full before you start. Once you do the last (LR) tire, the horn will beep twice again to let you know the procedure completed. Then set all the tires to specs and look at the info on the Driver Information Center (DIC) and see if they read right and the warning is gone. You may have to drive the vehicle around the block once at over 15-20 MPH to get the message to go away and reset. If it still has issues, then you will need to take it to a shop. Other than the re-learn procedure, the repairs will not be a DIY at home type thing (unless you just happen to have access to a tire mounting machine and wheel balancer!).
Most likely you'll have codes stored for low voltage and communication issues. This will be because the battery went dead. As Pushrod said, have scanned for codes, and have them cleared.
The way to do it cheaper is to buy the $12 part(s), and do the work yourself. Gaskets are not expensive, but labor is not cheap. Sorry not to have a better answer, but the truth hurts.