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El Sobrante, CA
Ok. I work for GM and do this stuff for a living. I have access to ALLDATA. The car came to me running. It needs work, and we wanted to know if the engine was any good before putting money into it. I did a basic compression test. All cylinders between 100-110. Put the plugs back in and wires back on. Now it cranks and won't start. Got fuel, but no spark from coil wire to dist cap. Fuses are good. Tested coil. Primary side failed at 58 ohms (spec is 0.3 - 0.4) Replaced coil. Same issue. Tested ICM. It failed. Replaced Ignition Control Module. Same issue. Swapped whole distributor (I had one off an old motor). Same problem. Put new ICM in the swapped distributor. Same problem. Verified wiring between ECM pin A20 to ICM (green/yellow wire). Verified B+ voltage between ECM pins B5 and A26 (and 7.5A Starter Signal Fuse) during cranking. With a (Snap On) scanner on it, I see RPM (Engine Speed) signal during cranking. Coil wire tests at 1040 Ohms. Started over. Retested coil- now tests good. Retested ICM - tests bad again. Now I'm stuck. I have now tried 3 different ICM(s) and it keeps testing bad. Either my DVOM or ALLDATA is wrong. Or I truly have 3 (including 1 new) bad ICM(s). Any ideas/tests/help would be appreciated.
While it is possible that you have a module or input problem, I need some more info. Is the camera on the Rear View Mirror, or do you have the Navagation Radio with the camera display there? If it is on the mirror, then lift the mirror up and check that the electrical connector is seated all the way (we usually reccommend unplugging it first and checking for loose terminals, then plugging it back in firmly). If it is on the Nav Radio, there is a software programming update for this concern. Have it programmed before looking any further. Next: Are there any aftermarket electronics or modifications installed? There have been some real issues with some of them. Let me know.
Should be on the A/C Discharge hose/line from the compressor to the Condenser
Pressure test the cooling system for leaks. If you don't see a leak at about 16-20 PSI, check for one at lower pressure too (about 7-11 PSI). The 5.3L V-8's have had a common water pump leak occurring. Just something to check.
Try a Global Reset (remove the battery cables and touch them together for about 30 seconds). Otherwise, you'll need the scan tool. After replacing the lock cylinder w/sensor, you will need to do a theft relearn though. To do this, try and start the vehicle. Whether it starts or not, leave the key in the "Run/On" position (if the vehicle does start, don't worry, it will shut off by itself shortly). The key must then remain in the on position for a FULL 10 MINUTES. The security warning lamp will flash while the vehicle does the relearn. DO NOT turn the ignition to any other position until the security warning quits flashing. Then turn the key off for 30 seconds and then sdtart the vehicle. It should now operate normally. NOTE: MAKE SURE THAT BATTERY IS FULLY CHARGED BEFORE STARTING THE RELEARN PROCEDURE.
The ignition module is not your problem. As globalhelper said, your battery is shot. But the battery is not the root cause of your problem. If the car stayed running after key off, you could have an ignition switch malfunction causing that, but it would not cause the melted jumper cables, as it would not be drawing enough current to cause this (unless you hear the starter motor running the entire time too and the ignition switch is stuck in the "Crank" position). All GM cars nowadays use low current switches that send signals to the BCM, PCM, and other modules and then have relays to control the high current side. Remove the starter relay from the underhood electrical box and check to see if terminal 85 is getting power when the key is rotated to the crank position and that power goes away when the key is let go from the crank position. If this is functioning normally, you have just eliminated the Ignition switch, the starter relay, the BCM and the PCM as causes of the high current to be drawn (that said, the Ign. Sw., BCM, or PCM could still be the cause(s) of the car continuing to run after key removal). With the jumper cables melted I would agree with pushrod and would be inclined to take a good look at the starter motor and check the positive battery cable for a serious short to ground. The 4 cyl. motor in that car should not require near enough current to crank over to melt any cables.
If the filter is leaking, change it. If it is the oil pan, and the shop is saying they will have to "lift the engine" to repair it, RUN, don't walk, away from that shop and go to someone better qualified. I am a GM Factory Trained Tech and currently work for a Chevy dealer in CA. We DO NOT lift engines for oil pan repairs. We use an upper engine support (the long way to do it) or a screw jack from underneath as support (the shortcut way for us flat-raters) and then remove the right side bolts and "hang the cradle" from the left side bolts. It is genrally a 4-6 hour repair estimate from most shops. Hope this helps.
There is an Ignition Control Module, but where it is mounted and what style it is depends on which 4 Cylinder motor you have. A bad Coil will not cause the problem you are describing. Also, you say when its warm it dies, but does it die if you just let it idle and warm up or does it die while driving? Just because the Check Engine light comes on when the ignition is turned on, does not mean the PCM is working. The Instrument Panel Cluster (or the BCM in some cases) is in charge of the bulb check at key-on. And, are you positive that it is an OBD 2 system?
Screws into the side of the oil pan on the passenger side. Should be beige or light yellow colored plastic with a blue or black two-wire connector attached to it. It will not be real tight, and has an o-ring seal on it. When you put the new one in, DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN it. It only needs to be snug, not torqued.
The cause could be due to gaps in, or lack of, the sealer between the two pieces of sheet metal at the lower A-pillar to cowl area. This could be left or right hand side. Check both. Remove the dash pad and A-pillar trim. Inspect the points where the windshield contacts the cowl and A-pillar for any gaps or missing sealer and add some additional body/seam sealer to the affected seam.
I will need more information to get you a more accurate answer. What I can tell you right now is that NO, this is not a normal condition. But, if the Body Control Module isn't bad, it should not drain your battery either. Your vehicle is equipped with a RAP (Retained Accessory Power) Module. The way the system is designed to work is this; With the key in any position (except OFF) all the accessories will function normally. When the key is turned to the OFF position with the DOORS CLOSED, and the BCM detects that the battery is in a good state of health (voltage wise), the BCM will enable the RAP System. This allows for up to 10 minutes of Accessory use (power windows and radio/entertainment system included). The ONLY door switch input that causes the RAP system to turn off is the DRIVER door. The BCM then continues to monitor the battery state of health and it's 10 minute timer. RAP will shut down after the 10 minutes or if the battery voltage drops to low (whichever happens first). If you can open the DRIVER door and the stuff still stays on, you do have a problem. Whether or not it will run the battery down depends on what the problem actually is. Open the DRIVER door, and then stand there and see if the system shuts down in 10 minutes or less. If it shuts down in this time, then the BCM is still able to turn off the RAP system and you are not in danger of a dead battery. If it stays active longer, then yes, you could have the battery run down on you. Let me know whether it shuts off or not and I will give you some diagnostic direction to find the problem.