Journeyman

Journeyman

317 points

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Chevy Ase

Oakland, CA

I have been a Technician since 1986, and a Journeyman Tech since 1994. I am currently working at a Chevrolet dealership in CA. I am ASE and GM certified. I will be happy to answer any GM vehicle questions and provide what information and guidance I can. Email: ChevyASE@aol.com Cell Phone: 510-334-6152 (please text, I don't answer calls from numbers I don't recognize) Hours: Tuesday-Friday 0800-1800 and Saturday 0800-1600.


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Question Answered: 

Need lots more info to help you. Does this only happen when the car is at normal operating temp? When you say "stopped", do you mean shut off and re-started or after the first time you come to a stop? Does it do it cold? Is it only after you have been on the freeway and then get back to in town driving? When it drags, do the engine RPM's increase and the car just not go, or does the engine feel like it has a lack of power and the RPM don't climb at all? Any warnings or indicators come on? Have you had it scanned for codes? Please help us help you.


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Question Answered: 

When you say it won't start, does it crank over normally and just not fire up or does it not crank at all? 2 different problems.


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Question Answered: 

Check all your fuses in the dash and underhood fuse boxes. Also check all your ground wires (especially the ones from the engine to the frame and body/chassis to frame) for good tight connections.


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Question Answered: 

I posted the bulletin and repair procedures under the reply from pushrod. If you want a copy of the instructions with pictures, please email me at ChevyASE@aol.com and I will send it to you.


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Question Answered: 

Is the engine making any ticking or tapping noises? If not, then it is your sensor or guage. Screw in a manual guage in place of the oil pressure switch and get a reading. If there si no noise, chances are it'll read normal. To test the guage you need a variable resistor box (guage tester). Easier to just replace the sending unit and see what happens first.


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Question Answered: 

Agree with pushrod. Not CRANKING and not STARTING are 2 very different things given what you said about replacing the column.


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Question Answered: 

Yes. It can cause issues with the AFM system. AFM will be disabled if the system sees (or thinks it sees) low oil psi. Check the wires to the switch and make sure they are not broken or shorted anywhere. If they are not, then replace the Oil PSI switch. If there are still issues after this, then you will need a scan tool (not a code scanner) for diag.


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Question Answered: 

Check all of your grounds for good tight connections. If they are all good, then take to a shop for proper electrical diagnosis.


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Question Answered: 

Aside from the timing chain tensioner, are you sure that the balance shafts and chain were installed correctly and timed correctly? Did the camshaft or crankshaft position sensors(s) get broken by chance? Tear down and re-inspect and line everything back up again. Pray you didn't do internal damage if anything is off.


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Question Answered: 

P0171 is a lean code and P0172 is a rich code. It could be the MAF sensor, but it sounds like it is air leaks. Grab a can of carb cleaner and spray along the edges of the intake manifold. See if the idle fluxuates or stumbles. Also listen to the engine when the vehicle starts up cold and see if you hear any exhaust leaks. An exhaust leak before the O2 sensor will cause problems as well. Try switching sides with the O2 sensors before the cat convertors and see if code(s) P0174 or P0175 set. You may just have a bad O2 sensor. If the code changes whent he sensor is moved, replace the sensor.


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