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San Diego, CA
Hello: Mechanic has told me that he has a clear coolant that works when mixed with any other color coolant that had been previously put in the car (i.e., if you're last coolant replacement that was red, you should go with red or use this clear coolant replacement). Is this so or should I go with the color I used last time? Thanks a bunch--
Have not had transmission fluid changed since buying the car. The car now has 90,000 miles on it. Mechanic says the oil is brown (somewhat dirty) but not black. I've heard that a flush could be dangerous to the transmission when the oil is dark, but that a regular drain and refill will still leave a lot of the old tranny fluid in the transmission since the drain and refill does not get all of the old fluid out. What to do? Get flush or just drain and refill?
Just had my rear main seal replaced because of an oil leak. Should my mechanic have changed the oil while doing this job?
It's been recommended that I get the transmission fluid and filter changed (trans fluid has never been changed and car is at 90,000 miles) to possibly stop an engine oil leak. How could this help the engine oil leak?
Have an oil leak and mechanic reported dye test indicated rear main seal leak. However, I read it could be the PCV valve that needs replacement. Interestingly, after the leak started, my check engine light came on. (I also read that sometimes the PCV valve and the check engine light go hand in hand.) I had the mass air flow sensor cleaned and the light went off. Immediately after that, the car started leaking more oil. Coincidence? Also, is the valve cover gasket the same as the PVC value?
I have a rear main seal oil leak. I live in San Diego and am interested in anyone's recommendation on where to take it here since it's an expensive job and I'm worried about getting the rush. Also, do mechanics usually find other problems when this type of problem occurs or is it a safe bet that they'll just need to put in a new rear main seal? Thanks!
Other than paying someone to take apart the engine to get to the transmission, any other (cheaper) suggestions? I noticed that the oil seems to drip from the same spot at the bottom of the engine. Wouldn't it be great if someone could invent a cheap device that could be hooked on (like a little metal basket) to that certain part of the engine and then it could collect the oil? I guess it might sound stupid to a lot of mechanics, but I don't know anything about cars. My leak isn't bad, but I don't want it contaminating the environment.
My mechanic told me that he will not use the Toyota brand coolant to flush and change my coolant in my Toyota echo because it has corrosive chemicals (he called the Toyota brand the "red" coolant, but I've only seen green coolant used in my radiator). Does this make sense to anyone? I would think that Toyota would make the right coolant for its cars.
I have never changed the transmission fluid because the Toyota service book does not include an interval at which to change it; I had no idea I was supposed to change the trans fluid until many miles past 60,000. Then I was told that it was risky to change the fluid because if the transmission has too much debris the changing of the fluid could actually cause problems. Also, all the service book says is that a mechanic should check the transmission for leaks.
Engine light has been on for a while and mechanic said it is because mass air flow censor needs replacing. The car sometimes stalls a little, especially on hills.