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Bell Buckle, TN
Disconnect negative battery cable. Looking at the light, push it to the left to bend the retaining hook inside the light and pull out on the right side.
It's likely that you have a fuel leak. Your major concern should be the safety of yourself and those around you. Have a professional put their eyes on the fuel tank and it's related components immediately. There are two access panels on top of the fuel tank. If the fuel pump or filter/pressure regulator unit seals were installed incorrectly, gasoline will leak from around them when the tank is full. It's under the back seats.
Remove the cover on the right side of the dashboard beside the glove box. Inside, you will see the damper for the glove box. Disconnect it from the glove box allowing you to open the glove box fully. Open the glove box and push in the tabs on each side that keep the box locked into the dashboard. Behind the glove box you will see the access panel for the cabin filter.
For a lot of shops, a coolant renew/flush consists of opening the engine block drain and the radiator drain allowing all of the coolant to drain then replacing the coolant. Some facilities will run another chemical in the cooling system like a cleaner (the flush) and then drain the cooling system again. You are basically paying for an hour of labor and the cost of coolant and the flushing agent. It is important to do this about every two years because over time coolant becomes acidic. That's right, acid. It will, over time, eat through the composite plastics and aluminum pieces that your engine and radiator are made out of. It is much cheaper to replace the coolant every few years than to deal with the cost of replacing radiators. The earlier four cylinder Accords had a steel coolant pipe running behind the engine. I once saw the coolant eat right through that pipe. Pay to have it done professionally. A special system should be used on that car to remove the coolant via vacuum and then replace the coolant using the existing negative pressure in the cooling system. Otherwise air pockets may cause the engine to overheat afterwards. Saw a guy do this very recently, sorry. The thermostat issue is entirely up to you. It depends on the mileage of the vehicle, but it's not a bad idea.
Lots of people do not replace the fuel filter for the entire life of their car. You should replace it obviously, but I've only seen fuel filters cause a car not to start on very old metal fuel tank cars with CIS fuel distribution systems. Jaguar S-types have a history of crank shaft position sensor failure. With almost any hand held scanner that will show you the data stream, you can observe RPM speed on the scanner hooked to your car while you are cranking the engine and trying to start it. If the scanner reads 0 RPM while the engine is cranking, then you have a bad crank sensor. This part is available at the jag dealer for around 30 bucks. The sensor is located behind the passenger front tire. remove the plastic in the wheel well and there it is. Honestly though, that's just the most typical S-Type No-start issue. There are a great many causes for no starts in all cars. That jag also has a very sensitive PCM (engine control module). That is the computer that controls the operation of the engine. If you have jump started the car improperly for example, it could be damaged.
Coolant smell inside the car is a symptom of a leaking heater core. That is the small radiator inside the dashboard that transfers the heat of the coolant to the air that blows through you vents making you warm. That particular model of Saab is knows to develop external head gasket leaks, meaning coolant leaks to the outside of the engine rather than into the combustion chambers (cylinders). If the car currently leaks coolant, bring the car to operating temperature on a flat surface and look for drips, then follow the drips to their source. It can take patience.
The valve clearance on that vehicle should be checked/adjusted every 60,000 miles according to the "normal" driving conditions service table. It is a five hour job, so you are paying the hourly rate x 5. If the shop charges 100/hour, then it will cost 500 plus tax. Shims will probably be necessary as well but are relatively inexpensive.
Wheel bearing failure on BMWs is pretty common, but so is tire "chopping". Run your hand down the tread surface of the tire. It should be smooth. If you run your hand in the direction opposite of rotation and you feel raised edges, than you have a tire problem. But, the fact that you say it is "only when you first take off and first brake, makes me think that this car isn't driven regularly and, in the right environment, a car can develop a layer of rust on the brake rotors over the course of a single day that could make that noise. Any way, a front wheel bearing failure can be dangerous for you and other drivers around you. I advise you to have a local tire shop check it out.
Make sure the ignition wires are routed appropriately to their specific cylinders. We often see people mix up the wires when replacing the cap, wires, button etc.
This should be done by a trained professional. Meaning: It is very easy to make simple mistakes that are very expensive to "unmake". Disconnect the battery. Removal Procedure Remove the cross car brace. Remove the fuel injector sight shield. Remove the PCV dirty air tube from the camshaft cover. Remove the PCV fresh air tube. Remove the sight shield bracket nuts. Remove the sight shield bracket. Disconnect the left side fuel injector electrical connectors from the fuel injectors. Disconnect the right side fuel injector electrical connectors from the fuel injectors. Disconnect the evaporative emissions purge valve line and electrical connector. Remove the EVAP line from the retaining feature at the rear of the right head. Position the line aside. Relieve the fuel system pressure. Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail. Remove the fuel line from the retainer at the rear of the right head. Remove the fasteners attaching the fuel rail to the intake manifold. Lift the entire fuel rail and injector assembly from the intake manifold. Loosen the plenum duct clamp at the front of the intake manifold. Loosen the bolts attaching the intake manifold to the cylinder heads. Remove the intake manifold by using an upward lifting motion at the rear of the manifold assembly.