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One of my cylinder compressions is only 30 psi. I'm wondering if this is something worth repairing or if that's the end of the engine. She runs really rough, I have to put her in neutral and rev the engine just to keep it going at a stoplight and she smokes bad when she starts up. The engine makes a sort of clicking sound and shakes. Makes it hard to sell even for a really low price!
for me the rain is getting in through my back lights, I've heard you can get a new tail light assembly, but haven't done it myself.
This is my moms truck. The problems all started with the heater not working so the heater core was replaced by a home mechanic who is questionable. No problems for a couple months then the truck started over heating and the same mechanic replaced the thermostat, which did not solve the problem so we took the truck to a real shop. They did a compression test and said the head gasket was warped and needed to be replaced, $1100 later and a new head gasket, its still over heating at the shop. Then they said it was the clutch fan, more money, still over heating. Now there saying there is a block in the radiator which they think is from the last guy trying to use some kind of leak sealer. I'm a loss, we had to borrow money for these repairs and it seems never ending. I'm starting to wonder if the current shop is just scamming us... Any help is greatly appriciated. Thanks
I had to slam on my breaks to avoid hitting someone and now my front left wheel has metal shavings in it and it makes a horrible grinding noise when I break. Is the rotor the issue here? Will replacing them fix the problem? And, what else should I look out for that could have been damaged?
So my alternator and battery are good, but the car stopped running while I was driving and won't start. I replaced the cap and rotor and the o-ring in my distributor about a month ago, but the cap already has a small crack in it- could this be the problem or is it more likely the distributor itself? Any other ideas? Thanks
it's in the front of the car, on the edge of the radiator framing. If your standing in front of the car with the hood up its about 4inches towards you from the alternator, it's a little box (about 2 in x 1 in x 1 in) with a rubber cover. Make sure the new one you get matches the serial number for the old one, these hondas had a couple different relays for 1990
I changed out my front cv axle on an 88 Honda civic, it only took a couple of hours, I don't think you need to change them both unless there both bad. I think it's pretty important to change once it starts going out, you don't want it to completely fail while your driving, it would cause more damage to the car, and be extremely dangerous. Make sure you get the correct axle, the shop I went to gave me the wrong one twice in a row. As a disclaimer- I'm not a mechanic, this is just my own experience with honda cv axles. Good Luck
My car has blown through 3 alternators in the past 4 months, I'm guessing there is an electrical short, am I on the right track? I've read I can hook up a test light between neg. battery cable and battery, if the light comes on it says I should pull fuses one at a time until the test light goes out, then I'll know where the short is. Is this the best way to find the short? Also the radio was stolen from the previous owner, but no wires were damaged, could this be related?