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started about a year ago, only just once in a while.last few months it got worse,if i cycled the switch from off to run a few times,pump would eventually prime and start and ran perfect until i turn off truck.checked fuel pump fuse,its good,new fuel pump relay,new pcm relay,new ignition switch(electrical part),new starter solenoid on firewall.i removed fuel pump relay and put a jumper from pin 30(hot all times)to pin 87.this gives constant power to inertia switch,dk grn/yellow,also gives constant power leaving switch(pnk/blk)to fuel pump.there are 4 wires on fuel pum plug.pnk/blk is power and blk is ground,i have 12.54vdc at these points.fuel pump still will not prime.the other 2 wires are for the sender(gas guage,it works.yel/wht,blk/org.this has beat me up.bed is off and i found sticker on top of fuel pump assembly,and the date says 07-24-2000 and thats when the truck was built.also changed fuel filter,thats when pump quit priming.it started up after filter changed but died 5 minutes later in driveway,and now pump will not prime at all.i know that the crank sensor has to see rpm before the engine starts,but i dont think it stops the fuel pump from priming.the pump is 15 years old.i think pump is gone,but not sure.anyone had this problem or know anything i missed,please help.
have the battery checked and the alternator.one of them is bad or both.you must have a full charge on the battery before alternator can be checked while on vehicle,unless you remove it and take to autozone,or advance.if you do this way, stand near testing machine display and watch to make sure of results.have them test it at least 3 times. it sounds like the alternator is bad if car is cutting off,but if battery is bad,it will not stay maintained by alternator.the battery is for starting the car,then alternator takes care of running all electrical including computer,pcm,ecm ,etc.check the sides of the battery,there should be a round sticker on it with the year it was bought.average battery life now is 4 years,date could be on top of battery.heat is what kills a battery.its probably got a group 36R BATTERY IN IT.
well you may have a window motor or regulator bad or in a bind.over time the windows get crap on them from the weather,or from trees,sap for instance.all my windows in several cars and truck did the slow thing.a guy showed me this as i was buying a buick regal from him.at that time i was driving a 1991 accord 4 door.i told him all windows were going up and down slow.he went in his garage and got a can of silicone spray and told me to roll all the windows all the way down.he then attached the little red straw to the can and sprayed it into all my window tracks,just where the glass rides on,just spray a little starting at top to the bottom.roll windows up and down a few times and windows will go up and down so smooth,like they are on steroids.this is unless you have a bad motor or regulator.try it,wont hurt.if it works,do it 3 or 4 times a year.dirt and grime gets in there and makes it tough on the motor and regulator.if all is well after this,remove inside door panel then or later and spray a little silicone on the regulator.you can buy this silicone spray at az,adv,or napa and walmart is cheapest.the one i use is made by liquid wrench.
first of all that head is aluminum,you have to be very carefull with aluminum heads as you already know.they make a special tool to retap that hole after you get the coil off the plug,and what do you mean by you broke the coil,and threw a plug.were you putting plugs in it because the plugs were causing a problem.the plugs that came in it new are good for 100000 miles or better.what do you mean by broke coil.when removing coils you twist left and right and pull up as twisting it.is part of the coil still on the plug.
first you need to check gas cap and make sure it is tightened down good,also check gas cap seal or gasket and make sure it has no cracks or splits in it,if cap is not tight or seal is bad it will throw that code,if seal is bad replace cap.most vehicles as a rule of thumb is to tighten cap until it clicks 3 times,if yours clicks,if not just make sure you screw down untill tight,every time you put gas in.if all above checks out ok,then check vaccum lines and wiring at FTPS to be sure they are good,clean and tight.FTPS SENSOR IS AT LEFT FRONT CORNER OF FUEL TANK,LEFT BEING DRIVERS SIDE.
follow top radiator hose,it should be where hose goes on water outlet.if its like the 4.6 you have to remove 1 power steering bracket bolt and loosen the other to slide bracket out of way to get to housing.you need to drain down coolant a little so when you remove 2 bolts from housing where radiator hose is attached, so coolant wont run down inside spark plug hole.i think it is right over cyl #5 or 6.you dont have to remove hose just housing,thermostat is under it,also o ring,check or replace oring and pay attention to how thermostat is sitting in there,spring side should be down.i would replace oring myself,and buy a motorcraft stat.mine is a 192 degree,i found mine on e-bay at a good price.good luck.if you google how to replace my thermostat on my 2000 f-150 5.4,there is a good video,hope this helps.
could be low on freon,or bad cycle switch,or bad clutch switch,or bad pressure switch.most of the time,not all the time if a/c compressor cycles on and off,could be switch,if very low on freon most of the time it will not cycle untill freon put in,then you will hear and see compressor come on,cycling less as freon is to amount needed.
are the windows fogging up?is the passenger side floorboard wet?do you smell antifreeze?if so your heater core maybe gone.at least that was my problem,hope not yours.whole dash has to come out,steering column has to be dropped or come out.i had this done at a very good radiator shop in my city.it took 2 people 8 hours to do mine. i had this done in 2008 in november and it was very cold.price then was very good,$442.00 out the door.they furnished heater core,clamps,replaced 1 heater hose,and furnished antifreeze,and 1 year warranty.i could not have done this myself,from looking at alldata from az.to many screws for me.good luck....also when i got the truck back,antifreeze from leaking heater core had run down on the blend door and shorted it out.of course it had to be stuck on cold,tried tapping with screwdriver to get it to change over to hot,but that didnt work for us.had to replace blend door actuator also.$50.00 from ford dealer.
you need to remove the bezel around radio and heater controls,only one bezel just pull gently on on side and work your way around the bezel,its only held in by a couple clips.then you will be able to see the 4 screws holding in the heater,a/c controls.remove these screws and gently pull out the control,1 piece.not much slack in wires,but i did mine without unpluging i think 3 wire harness clips.there are if i remember right 1 bulb in between each harness clip,for a total of 3 bulbs,maybe 2,i cant remember.i am thinking the part # on the bulbs is 194 or 912,cant remember.if you have an owners manual it will tell you which bulb it takes.like i said i replaced mine without removing harness clips.small hands will help,but i got it done.just turn bulb holder a little and pull out,put new bulb in and turn bulb connector back in.make sure it is catching the slot before you reinstall everything,or it will fall out.take your time and you will be fine.looks good at night compared to cant find heater knobs at night.good luck
this is a very common problem with the ford trucks,and others,including lincoln navigator,exporers,and other ford made vehicles.i think 1997-2004 and maybe older and newer.it is called ODOMETER BLACKOUT.if you have a digital odometer,one that lights up and sometimes goes away and comes back on,this is for you.first of all,you do not lose any miles,the computer keeps up with the mileage.you can tap or beat on the dash and it may come back on and may not.dont beat your dash up.it is a cold solder joint in the instrument cluster panel.i fixed mine after it drove me nuts,cause i could not see my mileage.you can fix this with very little solder,and low watage pencil type soldering iron,not the gun type.you have to remove the cluster and take in house or wherever to repair.google this for example(why is my 2000 f-150 odometer blacking out)click on ford forums,and there are several write ups,pictures,videos,and step by step instructions.VERY IMPORTANT,FIRST UNHOOK BATTERY,NEG. FIRST AND THEN POS.,LET SIT FOR 10-20 MINUTES BEFORE YOU START ON THIS .ANY WIRES IN BEHIND CLUSTER THAT ARE YELLOW HAVE SOMETHING TO DO WITH THE AIRBAG.YOU DO NOT WANT AIR TO DEPLOY.i fixed mine 20000 miles ago and still working.about .05 cents worth of solder and taking my time,2-3 hours,maybe.there are 9 pins,and some of the forums say only to resolder the far pin to the right,but resolder all 9 pins,i found out the hard way,had to remove again and resolder the other 8 while i was in there,not all were cracked joints,but i did not want to remove cluster anymore.after i fixed mine,i called FORD STEALERSHIP and didnt tell them i fixed it,i told them what my truck was doing and the service manager told me that there was NO FIX FOR THIS,AND THAT I WOULD HAVE TO BRING TO THEM TO PUT NEW CLUSTER IN,AND HAVE MY PATS KEYS PROGRAMMED TO NEW CLUSTER OR COMPUTER WILL NOT RECOGNIZE NEW CLUSTER AND TRUCK WILL NOT START.i asked the big question,how much.he said $800.00.still i did not tell him i fixed already,i just said thank you and hung up phone.RESEARCH YOUR PROBLEM,AND TAKE YOUR TIME,TAKE PICS BEFORE AND AFTER,AND PAT SELF ON BACK WHEN FINISHED.
this happened to me.most f-150s,f-250s,f-350s,expeditions,explorers and more have a common problem with this.i had someone at a front end shop check mine and had to replace the upper control arm and the lower ball joints on both sides.if that is your problem,be sure and get the ones that have grease fittings.i worked at an auto parts chain and sold quite a few of these for various ford trucks,explorers,expeditions,navigators and so on.your wheel could fall to one side,so get checked and fixed asap.
ok,everyone who has told and asked me questions.here is what i am going to do first,tomorrow,5-25-2013.i have done a lot of research on this problem,and listened to you alls post.thats the way we talk in the south.i have a 91 honda accord ex,that has been wrecked,and drove it for a while after wreck.it started every time,been sitting for a while now.it takes the same relay. i am going to swap main relays,and see if it is the relay,rather than go to az,napa,or adv.and pay $60.00 for new relay.i will drive for a few days and then post what happened.found very detailed post on r&r of relay.thanks to all.part #19236 at az.
this started a couple of weeks ago.i start the car,drive 10 or 15 minutes to store and turn off engine.go in store and come back out.car will just spin over but not start.let it sit for app.5 minutes and it starts fine.car has new distributor.it does not cut off when driving,skip or anything else.runs good.no check engine light on at all.i dont know if coil is breaking down when it gets hot or if ignition module is going bad or if main relay is going bad.HELP?