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San Antonio, TX
have had concerns with the wiring chafing against the a/c lines near the accumulator.try wiggling the wires there while the truck is running.if it stalls then you got it! repair the wires and badaboom badabing your done! also have the alternator checked,can induce noise and affect the crank sensor signal.good luck!
first of all I have made alot of money on autozone misdiagnosis! nothing agianst you for trying to save money,at best just have them scan it then ask us here what the codes mean,or take to professional shop.either way I am happy to help!99.9% of the egr concerns are with the dpfe sensor out of range.you probable got a dtc of p0401 or p0402.if it is a p0401-egr insuff. flow. ground the egr vacuum regulator so that it pulls a vacuum on the egr valve.if there is very little to no difference in the engine speed your ports are clogged.you have to remove the throttle body/egr spacer plate.when you have it off you will see carbon stuffed in the ports,just clean out with a pick or something long and pointy.if your enginbe speed actually does go really low or almost stalls when you ground the egrvr then check the dpfe voltage reading.good luck,let us know what happened.btw- use a test light to make sure you ground the correct circuit!
the idle air control valve works to keep your idle at a preset speed by bypassing the throttle body to provide air to the engine for rpm control.you can totally do it yourself.depending on what engine you have,it can be located either on top of the throttle body,or behind it.the one mounted behind the throttle body is kind of a pain,2 8mm bolts one connector and voila!
most commonly,vacuum leaks are very notorious for these concerns.get access to a good scan tool to monitor your fuel trims.a positive 15% or above fuel trim usually indicates a pretty good vacuum leak.check your pcv tube attachment at the back of the throttle body.write back after you try this and I will be happy to help.
if you are talking about the rear a/c,you have to remove the right rear interior quarter panel,evacuate the a/c freon.once you remove the panel,the expansion valve is right there! just had to do mine on my 03 expedition for the rear a/c not cooling.
if the lever will not actually move out of park,check the brake light switch at the pedal.do your brake lights operate?if not go from here with your diag.if the lever does move but your indicator does not,then you most likely have a broken prndl cable.
is the air coming out of the defrost vents?if so you may have a vacuum leak,look under the hood at the right rear corner,near the passenger side bulkhead area.check for broken vacuum lines.
check the brake switch.if it is too sensitive,any little bump will deactivste the speed control as if you were stepping on the brakes.
load test the circuits at the alternator.have had alternators fail by turning on the battery light when they were charging just fine.the internal circuitry fails intermittently.Also for the heater core concern have the coolant checked for electrolysis.this concern may also be related to the charging system.if you have a weak or corroded ground cable,the electricity will find a path to least resistance,often times through your heater core! take a voltmeter ground the black lead and put the red lead in the coolant at the radiator,it should read less than 1 volt.
the flex fuel module is a 2 inch square black plastic part that is bolted to the dash under the drivers side.