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Bmdouble

San Antonio, TX

Senior Master Ford technician,hybrid vehicle certified,20yrs exp. specializing in electrical,driveability repairs.


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Question Answered: 

also check the wiring in the door jamb boot.with the door open,grab and move the boot.if the window starts to work,or operates with your movement of the boot,then you have a wire that is broken in there.an easy fix,and cheap!just a thought.


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Question Answered: 

there are two different ways.one by resetting keep alive memory,with a scan tool function or by a battery disconnect.2-clear continuous dtc function with scan tool,will keep adaptive strategies but just erase trouble codes.


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Question Answered: 

it is mounted behind the crank pulley on the front lower part of the engine.why are you replacing it? it is very common for the harmonic balancer on explorer 4.0 engine to come apart and rub on the crank sensor,thus destroying the sensor.if so you will need a new crank sensor,crank pulley,and crank pulley bolt.


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Question Answered: 

bank 2 would be the left bank,or as your engine is oriented,the side that is closest to the front of the veh. and it is the sensor closest to the engine,before the cat. converter.


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Question Answered: 

not super difficult,a little time consuming.just routing the cable is probably the hardest part.we charge 2 hrs labor to do it.be careful to route away from any hot parts.as far as cost is concerned,not sure on part price.call your local ford dealer and they can give an estimate.


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Question Answered: 

have you had the charging system checked? if so and it is good,you will have to do a draw test.you will need an amp meter that will read low amps/less than 10 amps.you will have to hook it inline between the battery neg, post and neg. vehicle cable.let all module go to "sleep" usually after 45 mins,then check the amp reading.should be less than .50 amps.if more,start pulling fuses until you pull the fuse that makes your reading drop substantially.then find out what's on that circuit and go from there.


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Question Answered: 

you will have to remove the switch bezel,and ultimately replace it.the plastic cracks and screws will not hold switch to the bezel.


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Question Answered: 

your ticking noise might be an exhaust leak.very common in this vehicle/engine combo.


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Question Answered: 

does it start and stall immediately? if it does you have an idle air control valve problem.the humming noise is a telltale sign of it also.see it alot!!!


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Question Answered: 

is it not working at all?we have problems with window switches and regulators.if you can hear something in the door when you push the switch,then you more than likely have a regulator concern.if you push the switch and hear nothing,it might be a switch or wiring concern.usually when it's a switch you can push and twist on it to get the window to move.good luck.


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