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Disconnect the switch from wiring ,jumper with a wire the 2 terminals if it doesn't blow the fuse ,its switch . I think you have bad switch.....
Don't take to dealer ,its the heat shield rattling ,u could take to local shop ,they strap it up or just discard ....or a muffler shop or me but I'm to far away..... Dealers going to hose you ,tell you ,you need the world . I think if it was a bad catylitic converter ,it would set check engine light..
The alignment guy wouldn't align it if all those things needed replace ,if it drives fine now down road ,your all sets....
Wow , never heard of that ,try a better brand , I like the winter Ones,they come with rubber all around them ... Try winter blades.
I'm not 100% accurate on this but it can't hurt ,take neg side of battery off for 1 minute then put back on to reset computer..
U could spray wd-40 on that the inside were the thing pops out to hold it shut,and keep working lever until it comes out again. If there no action , its probably the cable, . Duct tape??
those back steering ball joints?? Check those , it was a known problem. The steering bars that come off the rack and pinion...
Gotta get those oil filter pliers , they work mint ,I got mine from Mac man. There like big pliers and u gotta get it from bottom , I think I've seen them In a Advance auto , the plugs on the bottom of oil pan , u might have to Remove skid plate on that 1 , good luck , Those plastic ramps work good , drive rite Up and slid under on a cheap creeper..
Turn the key to on position , listen for the fuel relay to prime pump For seconds then it will click off. So basically turn to on then after 2 sec you'll Here a click if u hear that , it's the pump . But don't worry if it doesn't start after new pump is installed , Switch with another relay in the box like the horn relay , there all the same..
Those were tricky cars with module , coil packs,etc. U have to do some testing . Put plenty of fuel pumps in those cars. Gotta check for spark and fuel..