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Usually leak on front of motor coming from crankshaft seal.
There's alot of variables in drivetime but usually 50-70 miles for most. If you're tryin to get emissions test done after reset give max so doesn't fail again if not ready.
You can try and easy out at your local autoparts store. Drill pilot hole first then easy out. Stay totally away from threads on head. Don't drill too far in either. If you do make certain to use a wet/dry vacuum or something to pull out any possible shavings that may get in cylinder. Hope that helps.
They should be referring to the oil cap on valve cover. If cracked probably needs replacement cuz oil will leak out from around cap area. Should be simple just make sure to get new valve cover and torque specs.
Replace your camshaft position sensor- that should fix both.
I've had that problem as well and i find a fuel injection deep clean does wonders!
You may have to get brake fluid flushed, refilled and bled. Sounds like contamination of fluid. Probably something in abs if equiped. When you put in gear you first have to apply brake. If your having problem removing drum there should be a little hole on rear bottom inside where you can turn adjuster to move shoes away from drum. Other than that maybe just rust.
Clicking noise probably coming from your blendoor actuator tryin to open. There is a door right in front of your heater core behind dash area that opens and allows air to pass through heater core, getting heat into vehicle. Problem is these are very difficult to get to. I'd first disconnect battery for ten minutes and maybe (keep your fingers crossed) it resets. Try and let me know what happens.
Were you replacing thermostat due to an overheating problem that already existed? If was water pump you'd usually get a leak out of it. Been noticing any leaks in front of motor? If none of that you may need to bleed air out of system- maybe air pocket moving around.
Check to see if you have a fuse for your ECM. Very rare you'd get so much at once- sounds like computer problem.