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Chrysler ecm's tend to "forget" idle air control motor positioning when the battery voltage drops below 10 volts. If your battery voltage drops below 10 volts during start then the ecm will lose it's memory on that position. The problem most likely revolves around why is it starting "weak" maybe the battery has lost some capacity, maybe the starter is drawing too much, maybe battery cables are too corroded internally causing too high a voltage drop during cranking, maybe the alternator isn't charging the battery sufficiently, maybe there is a parasitic load on battery after you shut it off draining some of the battery capacity. Good luck!
What kind of diagram are you looking for? Simple exploded view of engine components? Your parts guys can print this out for you, so can the dealer. A diagram of where external parts go? There really isn't such a diagram, you may have to sift through google pictures on your car to see what you can find. Good luck!
Your oxygen sensors are probably not the problem, they have no bearing on injector pulsewidth during start, so they can't cause the engine to flood. The "idle air control" solenoid is probably the item that your mechanic told you may need to be cleaned, he may be correct. If this solenoid is clogged with carbon you may not be getting enough air during startup. When you put the throttle pedal all the way to the floor, GM calls this "clear flood" mode and severely shortens injector pulsewidth or shuts the injectors off all together. I would venture to guess that you may actually have problems with the fuel injectors themselves or the wiring to them through the tin spacer for the air cleaner, they may be "dumping" too much fuel. Good luck!
Your owners manual will have good information on how to check and add fluids safely as well as information on the correct types of fluids to use. As a general rule for coolant you should check coolant at the overflow tank, there are max/min level markings or cold/hot level markings, the coolant level should be between these marks at all times.
"The P0171 indicates a lean air-fuel ratio. It could sets by several different reasons i.e.: dirty, restricted injectors, bad or dirty Mass Air Flow Sensor, disconnected or leaking vacuum hoses, leaking intake manifold gasket, leaking exhaust , O2 sensor etc... You can check for disconnected or broken vacuum hoses and maybe clean the MAF sensor. CRC sells a good MAF cleaner, you can buy it in most parts store. Don't use other chemicals, you can damage the sensor. Zee" I second that!
The head bolts must be replaced as they are "stretch bolts", proper torque is not possible with old bolts. The torque is done in 3 steps: Step 1: 37-43 Nm Step 2: Rotate 85-95 degrees. Step 3: Rotate 85-95 degrees.
Your car came standard with power steering. It would probably cost more to have the system modified like that then just replacing the rack with the correct part.
I'd recommend getting a repair manual for your vehicle from the parts store or the dealer. They are well worth it in the long run if you are going to repair things yourself. The blower resistor is located behind glove box on heater box. What makes you feel the blower resistor is bad?
If all lights on dash and factory radio don't work then I'd go to the dimmer switch and test that.
Sounds like 2 different problems, certainly 2 different circuits. I'd test the blower resistor which is usually the cause for the blower to only work on high. The mode door actuator is the component that handles moving your air distribution from defrost to vent to floor etc. could be the switch, could be the actuator, could be a nest keeping door from moving, but you'd start with testing the inputs to the actuator and seeing if it even works.