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Agreed with other answers! The motor you hear turns a cogged gear that pulls a plastic belt with holes for the cogs that is attached to the seat belt. The plastic belt likely has been damaged by the cogged gear teeth, and will require replacement.
You might want to have a mechanic check the Mode 6 data with a professional scan tool that should show which components are out of specification range, or failing.
You can try some "lock Ease", or powdered graphite in the lock cylinder, but you likely have a broken tumbler inside the lock. Those are the brass pins that fall into the grooves on the key. The key code for your ignition key is inside the passenger door on the lock mechanism. The inner door panel needs to be removed, and the door lock needs to be partly removed to see the code numbers on the door lock cylinder You can then order a matching keyed cylinder. The less expensive way is to just purchase a new aftermarket lock cylinder that will come with a different key that won't fit your doors. To remove the ignition lock cylinder, remove cover panel under steering wheel. Insert key into ignition, turn key to acc, push button on bottom of cylinder under the dash, and pull the cylinder out of the dash. Install in reverse order.
Two wheel drive with auto trans. throttle body injection, Mileage 150,000 - idles, and runs good, no odd sounds. Cap, rotor, and wires just cleaned and less than 10 k miles old, new coolant temp sensor due to thread leak, and one connector pin discolored black, new Denso oxygen sensor, replaced loose vacuum lines, cleaned PCV valve, cleaned IAC passage, Tested EGR valve by pulling vacuum on port with engine running and engine stumbles. The fuel pump and intake manifold gasket had been replaced a few years ago. I am guessing the no start on first try is fuel system related, and has been affecting this C1500 since the truck was new according to my friend who owns the truck. Recently the truck doesn't readily start on the second try. I don't presently have a fuel pressure test set, or an OBD 1 code reader but the service engine light does come on, then go off momentarily at times. The data link connector looks like an upside down top hat. Before replacing the vacuum lines, the old oxygen sensor was black, and when replaced it was light grey. Thank you in advance for any thoughts on cause and solution.
This is a symptom of a badly worn track bar.
The cheapest solution is to reattach the fabric with contact cement, etc. Otherwise you can obtain used visors for replacement on ebay.com for around $40.00 - $65.00 depending if you need one visor, or both. The fabric on my 1999 ram 1500 visor was fraying at the seam, and the dealer wanted over $100.00 for a single replacement visor, so I used hot melt glue to reattach the fabric. You should remove the visor from the vehicle if you are going to re-glue the fabric, so you can avoid getting glue on your seats.
The truck sat for 10 years outside, gas tank was close to empty. Installed a battery, replaced clogged air filter with new air filter, added two gallons fresh gas to tank, removed the return line from throttle body and gas shoots out for two seconds with key in run position. With the return hose reconnected, and engine cranking over, no gas spraying from the two injectors in the TB. The engine spins ok with the starter, no odd noises. Battery voltage 12.47V from bat ground to plus pins on injector connector from pcm. One neg pin pegs analog meter, and the other neg pin has no continuity with key in run position. Key on chk eng light obd1 codes are 1 space 2 space 5 space 5. The injector resistance is 0.00 for both on ohm X 1k setting. Distributor has rust on rotor rivet, and inner cap terminals, but spark is jumping from coil wire when I hold the terminal close to engine ground. Any thoughts on what to check next, or what is causing the injectors to not spray. Thank You!
The website heatertreater.net has good information on blend door troubleshooting and they also sell components that will fix these issues. Check out their website and see if your heater problems are the same as they describe for your Ram, and also the Sebring.
The upper hose goes to the thermostat housing, and the water pump is under the timing belt cover.
Upstream between the engine and firewall. P0300 - P0305 = misfires on cylinders 1, 3, & 5. Along with replacing the O2 sensors, you might clean or replace the Variable Valve Timing oil control valve filters.