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If the air filter is dirty, replace it. If the new air filter doesn't help, have the PMD "pump mounted driver" tested.
Normally indicates a thermostat that is stuck partly open. Replace the thermostat with an OEM Dodge thermostat.
Three things you can try; Install tire cables on both rear tires when driving in snow, or when driving in snow, lower tire pressure 5 pounds less than pressure recommended on door jam for better traction, remember to increase tire pressure to recommended pressure when snow is clear. If one rear wheel is starting to spin, apply the parking brake slightly to regain traction. Tire recommendation would be Hankook Optimo H727, Hankook Mileage Plus II, or Hankook Road Handler "sold by Sears only." All three are very good in all seasons!
OD is short for overdrive which is the highest gear for relatively flat land driving on the highway. If you are driving up a mountain pass, you can push the button, the OD off light will turn on in the dash cluster, and the transmission will stay in the lower gears. That way the transmission will not overheat from shifting in and out of overdrive frequently. OD off will use more fuel, and should be used only when the transmission is frequently shifting the higher gears which is called gear hunting such as ascending a steep grade.
Just a guess, but it sounds like your negative battery cable needs to be tested, or replaced. Bad grounding will cause lots of strange issues.
I replaced a failed OEM diverter valve Motorcraft part number 6S43-9F491-AA (Dealer cost $180.00) with an inexpensive universal exhaust system check valve, and plugged the vacuum hose that attached to the diverter valve with a fine thread screw. I then cleared the code and did a couple drive cycles so the ECM could relearn the fuel trim and run all the monitor. All the monitors including the "AIR" monitor ran and set OK. The cost for the universal exhaust check valve, and two hose clamps from Autozone parts store, galvanized npt thread to barb hose adaptor from Ace hardware store, and screw was less than $20.00. The Ford Fusion is working great with the $20.00 replacement madification. I also replaced the brittle vacuum hose from the manifold to the vacuum switching valve that controls the diverter valve.
All wheel drive, manual transmission, 2.0 liter engine, 200,000 miles. Acts like the clutch is slipping especially on inclines. Ne visible fluid leaks, and the slave cylinder functions when the peddle is pressed. Peddle linkage and bracket look ok. Bled the clutch slave cylinder which helped with peddle feel and engagement, but it doesn't engage well if the clutch is let out slow. Takeoff is better if the engine is revving and the clutch is dumped. Could anything like the master cylinder, slave cylinder, transfer case or differentials also be the cause? How would I verify the clutch is needing replacement myself? Thank you for all assistance!
1983 K5 blazer full size. The wipers work on low and high switch setting. When I push in on the switch for washer fluid to spray, it will spray until the wipers are turned off. If I turn the wipers back on, the washer will still spray without activating the washer. It will continue to spray until the wiper switch is cycled on and off three times then stop spraying. The wiper motor/washer pump unit has been replaced 3 times with re-manufactured units. The wiper/washer dash switch has been opened and cleaned internally. The wiring harness terminals at the firewall have been cleaned and di-electric grease applied. None of the above measures have fixed the continuous washer spray. Any ideas on testing and/or repair would be appreciated!
The monitors don't reset with only highway miles. If the correct repairs were accomplished, then a specific "Drive Cycle" routine needs to be followed which is available for free at the following link. http://repairpal.com/how-to-perform-a-basic-drive-cycle