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All wheel drive, manual transmission, 2.0 liter engine, 200,000 miles. Acts like the clutch is slipping especially on inclines. Ne visible fluid leaks, and the slave cylinder functions when the peddle is pressed. Peddle linkage and bracket look ok. Bled the clutch slave cylinder which helped with peddle feel and engagement, but it doesn't engage well if the clutch is let out slow. Takeoff is better if the engine is revving and the clutch is dumped. Could anything like the master cylinder, slave cylinder, transfer case or differentials also be the cause? How would I verify the clutch is needing replacement myself? Thank you for all assistance!
1983 K5 blazer full size. The wipers work on low and high switch setting. When I push in on the switch for washer fluid to spray, it will spray until the wipers are turned off. If I turn the wipers back on, the washer will still spray without activating the washer. It will continue to spray until the wiper switch is cycled on and off three times then stop spraying. The wiper motor/washer pump unit has been replaced 3 times with re-manufactured units. The wiper/washer dash switch has been opened and cleaned internally. The wiring harness terminals at the firewall have been cleaned and di-electric grease applied. None of the above measures have fixed the continuous washer spray. Any ideas on testing and/or repair would be appreciated!
A friend had 4 new tires installed by a tire shop and afterward noticed vehicle pulling to the side, and front end noise. Upon inspection, the strut rod and nut had pulled out of the upper mount hole (most likely when it was on the lift)and was way off center under the mount "hat". The big nut was still on the strut rod, so we jacked up the vehicle, positioned the rod back into the mount hole, and lowered the vehicle. The struts had been replaced a couple years ago with aftermarket ones. Should the threaded rod, and nut actually be attached to the upper strut mount somehow, or does it just set in the hole with room to move? Thanks for any assistance.
1989 Dakota Sport V6, manual trans. No fuel from injectors, have spark to plugs, Truck has old fuel in the tank from sitting for 10 years so I rigged a container with new fuel pump and fresh gas straight to throttle body, and direct off battery. Also replaced the fuel pressure regulator. I don't hear the old fuel pump still in the tank running, just the new one running continuously. Engine cranks fine and starts when primed. the three codes were #12, #26, and #55. Does this mean the two throttle body injectors are bad? I appreciate your assistance with this no start issue! Thank You!
When I purchases the truck used some years ago, only one well worn aftermarket key came with it. I made copies from that one, but these keys are having trouble with opening the two doors. I don't know if the truck has remote keyless entry since I did not get a remote with the purchase. The keys I have all work in the ignition, and do not have a chip. The electrically operated door locks work with the pull up knob, and door switches. The keys will lock the drivers door but won't unlock it, and will unlock the passenger door but won't lock it. I use graphite with a liquid carrier to lube these locks with no improvement in operation. What options would you recommend to fix this door lock/key issue? Can I get a code for a new key from the manufacturer using my VIN number? Thank You all for the awesome assistance you provide!!!
Two wheel drive with auto trans. throttle body injection, Mileage 150,000 - idles, and runs good, no odd sounds. Cap, rotor, and wires just cleaned and less than 10 k miles old, new coolant temp sensor due to thread leak, and one connector pin discolored black, new Denso oxygen sensor, replaced loose vacuum lines, cleaned PCV valve, cleaned IAC passage, Tested EGR valve by pulling vacuum on port with engine running and engine stumbles. The fuel pump and intake manifold gasket had been replaced a few years ago. I am guessing the no start on first try is fuel system related, and has been affecting this C1500 since the truck was new according to my friend who owns the truck. Recently the truck doesn't readily start on the second try. I don't presently have a fuel pressure test set, or an OBD 1 code reader but the service engine light does come on, then go off momentarily at times. The data link connector looks like an upside down top hat. Before replacing the vacuum lines, the old oxygen sensor was black, and when replaced it was light grey. Thank you in advance for any thoughts on cause and solution.
The truck sat for 10 years outside, gas tank was close to empty. Installed a battery, replaced clogged air filter with new air filter, added two gallons fresh gas to tank, removed the return line from throttle body and gas shoots out for two seconds with key in run position. With the return hose reconnected, and engine cranking over, no gas spraying from the two injectors in the TB. The engine spins ok with the starter, no odd noises. Battery voltage 12.47V from bat ground to plus pins on injector connector from pcm. One neg pin pegs analog meter, and the other neg pin has no continuity with key in run position. Key on chk eng light obd1 codes are 1 space 2 space 5 space 5. The injector resistance is 0.00 for both on ohm X 1k setting. Distributor has rust on rotor rivet, and inner cap terminals, but spark is jumping from coil wire when I hold the terminal close to engine ground. Any thoughts on what to check next, or what is causing the injectors to not spray. Thank You!
Actually 1983 K5 Blazer. 300,000 miles I'd guess, 6.2l diesel, 700r4 auto transmission, Motor is military take out and Trans was rebuilt some 12 years ago by the place I purchased it from. drain and fill twice in last 4 years on transmission fluid with one quart of Lucas fluid conditioner added, recent oil change, tv cable adjusted today after repair on throttle cable connector at db2 injection pump due to excess play. The vibration has been ongoing for a few years so I replaced the TC lockup wire connector at trans due to bare connector wires touching earlier this Summer, and replaced the brake light switch also. The vibration is present after a short drive when I am at a stop light with the brake peddle depressed, but if I momentarily shift to neutral then back to 3rd the vibration goes away. A mechanic adjusted the tv cable this last summer and stated that he thought the tc is staying locked up, and also recommended a new throttle valve cable. Any thoughts on the cause and solution would be appreciated!
The vehicle is actually a 1983 K-5 full size civilian diesel Blazer with a take-out 1984 military 6.2l J code diesel engine with original military DB-2 injector pump that has a slight fuel leak at the throttle shaft, "new timing chain, and head gaskets installed during engine swap two years ago", 4X4, 700R4 trans. The engine acts like the timing is increasing during the surge with more engine rattle, and speed. The truck has a slight vibration at idle in both park and drive gear, white smoke from passenger side exhaust for 10 seconds after startup but no smoke from drivers side, and #4 cylinder has lower compression (250 psi) than the others(around 300 psi). Other than that, it runs very good for a normally aspirated diesel engine. I cleaned all 8 injectors manually DIY. When I turn the engine over by hand I can hear a clicking sound coming from the passenger side of the engine. Since the injector timing is regulated by the fuel pressure inside the injector pump, the throttle shaft leak might be the cause is my guess. All help is appreciated!
You don't want to use overdrive when towing, as it is usually just locking the torque converter and could cause the converter to fail. The transmission would be constantly "hunting" shifting between third and overdrive which overheats the trans especially in hilly country. So either use the drive position with OD turned off, or the third gear position if that is your highest gear. The trans will be able to shift from first gear on up without the overdrive. Fuel mileage will go down a bit, but you avoid possible transmission damage. Good Luck!
Hi, I am troubleshooting my 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 with 5.9 L & auto trans. My Innova 3160 scan tool shows the following special test results: $11 low, $19 high, $1A high for component $01. All other tests are ok. No present codes, and all monitors have run and set, but the cat monitor took a long time. Fuel economy is not very good,the IAC valve needs to be replaced as it hisses on acceleration. a slight rough idle during warm-up, but runs well other than that. Plugs, wires, rotor, TPS, and oxygen sensors have been replaced within the past 10,000 miles. Can you help me identify which component is identified as $01 in the tests? All help is appreciated!
The air conditioning system is expensive to repair, as it is a sealed system and needs to have the freon evacuated by a certified mechanic to replace most of the parts. I was quoted $1,500 for a compressor replacement. If the compressor fails, the condenser (in front of the radiator), dryer, and all line seals need to be replaced also. Some earlier Ford Fusions have an issue with the temperature sensor in the heater box behind the dash fail and will act as yours is. For this sensor to be replaced, it should cost around $500.00 as the dash needs to be removed and takes around five hours to repair. Call the certified mechanics in your area to see if you can get a free proper diagnosis and repair price quote. Good Luck
Check the rubber part of the transmission mount that is in the engine compartment, drivers side, attached to the inner fender to see if it is torn. Check the engine dog bone mount on the bottom, center, rear for the engine as it may be torn also. Please let us know what you find out!
Bank 1 sensor 1 is located between engine and firewall. Additional information on P01135 is located at link below. Click on link, or copy and paste web address to your upper address bar, and click the go button. http://engine-codes.com/p1135_lexus.html
The White plastic cover close to the firewall to the right of the gas peddle is the way to access the cabin air filter. The two piece filter, if installed should be directly behind the cover. After cover removal, pull out first half filter, then pull tab at the top down and then out to remove second half. Re-installation is reverse order.
Most likely the throttle body needs to be cleaned as well as the IAC valve (intake air control valve) located on the bottom of the throttle body. Remove Air inlet tube to throttle body. Put on chemical resistant gloves such as Nitrile. Wipe out throttle body with clean rags and throttle body cleaner. Hold throttle plate open manually and clean both sides of throttle plate. Bend a small nylon Zip tie to L shape and scrape the sides and bottom of the three holes going down in the throttle body, one visible with the plate closed, and the other two visible when the throttle plate is open. Use a vacuum to remove debris from the three holes. Reinstall air tube and see if it idles better!
The secondary air pump only turns on for around thirteen seconds after start-up.
The ASD relay controls both the fuel injectors, and ignition system, and operates when the PCM gets the correct signal from the crankshaft position sensor. Start your testing with the ASD relay, and then the crankshaft position sensor. The CPS tends to fail frequently and cause intermittent rough running.
Clean, and straighten the condenser fins located in front of the radiator, but be careful to not damage the condenser tubes. The air conditioning will work much better afterwards also! It took me about eight hours, over a three day period to straighten out the damage caused by bugs, and debris hitting the condenser. I also had to tilt the radiator toward the engine, and clean bird feathers from the radiator. Afterward, use a strong flashlight to shine through the front condenser and look for the light coming out on the engine side. Good luck!
The cabin air filter access is located to the right side of the gas peddle. Pull down carpet, remove vertical cover close to firewall. Pull out bottom half filter, pull down and out on upper half filter, and install new filter in reverse order.