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I replaced a failed OEM diverter valve Motorcraft part number 6S43-9F491-AA (Dealer cost $180.00) with an inexpensive universal exhaust system check valve, and plugged the vacuum hose that attached to the diverter valve with a fine thread screw. I then cleared the code and did a couple drive cycles so the ECM could relearn the fuel trim and run all the monitor. All the monitors including the "AIR" monitor ran and set OK. The cost for the universal exhaust check valve, and two hose clamps from Autozone parts store, galvanized npt thread to barb hose adaptor from Ace hardware store, and screw was less than $20.00. The Ford Fusion is working great with the $20.00 replacement madification. I also replaced the brittle vacuum hose from the manifold to the vacuum switching valve that controls the diverter valve.
All wheel drive, manual transmission, 2.0 liter engine, 200,000 miles. Acts like the clutch is slipping especially on inclines. Ne visible fluid leaks, and the slave cylinder functions when the peddle is pressed. Peddle linkage and bracket look ok. Bled the clutch slave cylinder which helped with peddle feel and engagement, but it doesn't engage well if the clutch is let out slow. Takeoff is better if the engine is revving and the clutch is dumped. Could anything like the master cylinder, slave cylinder, transfer case or differentials also be the cause? How would I verify the clutch is needing replacement myself? Thank you for all assistance!
1983 K5 blazer full size. The wipers work on low and high switch setting. When I push in on the switch for washer fluid to spray, it will spray until the wipers are turned off. If I turn the wipers back on, the washer will still spray without activating the washer. It will continue to spray until the wiper switch is cycled on and off three times then stop spraying. The wiper motor/washer pump unit has been replaced 3 times with re-manufactured units. The wiper/washer dash switch has been opened and cleaned internally. The wiring harness terminals at the firewall have been cleaned and di-electric grease applied. None of the above measures have fixed the continuous washer spray. Any ideas on testing and/or repair would be appreciated!
The monitors don't reset with only highway miles. If the correct repairs were accomplished, then a specific "Drive Cycle" routine needs to be followed which is available for free at the following link. http://repairpal.com/how-to-perform-a-basic-drive-cycle
View the following web page from Repairpal.com, and heatertreater.net that discuss problems with the Grand Cherokee ac system. This information should help to diagnose the issue with your AC system. http://repairpal.com/jeep-grand_cherokee-2002/problems/repairpal+verified http://www.heatertreater.net/magento/jeep/grand-cherokee/98-04/jeep-grand-cherokee-98-04.html
Start by cleaning both battery cable terminals and battery posts, apply a light coat of dielectric grease, then re-install your battery cables. Complete a drive cycle so your engine control module can re-learn the fuel trim parameters, and immediately check the cables to see if they are getting hot still. The cable that is still getting hot should be replaced if the post clamp is stretched and not making good contact.
40 miles is the most to expect, but keep in mind that the fuel pump is located in the tank and cooled by the fuel. Any time the tank is less than 1/4th full the fuel is NOT high enough to properly cool the fuel pump which could lead to premature fuel pump failure.
This is for a Dodge diesel to re-calibrate the TPS by following these simple instructions from a 2001 service manual. ECM Calibration: Turn key to ON position. Without starting engine, slowly press throttle pedal to floor and then slowly release, turn key off. This step must be done (one time) to ensure accelerator pedal position sensor calibration has been learned by ECM. If not done, possible DTC’s may be set.
If it is still under warranty, have the dealer fix it, or: Open drivers door and look at the latch position, then see if the passenger latch is in the same position. If not, try to flip it so that it is the same as the drivers side. If it just flops up and down, you have a latch that is ether internally gummed up, or internally damaged. You would then likely need a new replacement latch assembly. To access the door latch assy, the door panel will need to be removed. If you do not feel confident doing that level of repair, you should take it to a qualified mechanic.