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King George, VA
My first thought was that there was a vacuum leak, but the engine idles and runs good.
The air blend door actuator is not working. I had the same problem, and I did the repair. In order to get to it, you have to remove the bottom of the dashboard, the center console, and the glove box. Not easy, but it can be done. I am sure that a shop will charge you a ton of dollars to do it. I have pictures, but they will not paste in this answer window.
The engine is limited to 4800 RPM. Idle is fine, and the engine runs great up to 4800 RPM. It seems like a rev limiter is cutting in too soon. The engine acts like all the injectors stop firing at 4800 RPM instead of at the red line. The engine will drop about 500 PM and start running fine up to 4800 RPM. No check engine light on, and my OBD2 code scanner shows that no trouble codes are present.
During collection of OBD11 live data, Fuel Sys1 OL-Drive and Fuel Sys2 OL-Drive were displayed. What are Fuel Sys 1 and 2? What does OL-Drive mean? The car acts like it has a skip during hard acceleration. Plugs and plug wires have less than 40K on them. Front plugs look perfect; so, I believe that the rear plugs are also fine.
The battery is not dead. Sometimes the car will crank and start, and sometimes it will not crank. Different mechanics have not been able to diagnose the problem.
What is the cost of replacing the cable?
I have removed the glove box, and the motor is visible, but not accessible. I think that if the radio and that lower portion of the dash board is removed, I will be able to get to the motor. I do not see any screws that secure the radio or holes (like a Ford radio) in it for a special extractor tool. Also, I do not see how to remove the trim piece that surround the radio and air control knobs. How are these parts removed?
The front heater does not blow warm air. The A/C works fine. I think that the air blend door is not moving to the warm position.