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If you have read on here that many people have had the same problem, then you know that replacing the fuel sensor may also require replacing the fuel pump since they are integral - and it costs several hundred dollars. Most people take the easy and inexpensive way out of this: reset the trip meter every time you fill up the gas tank and fill up when it gets to around 250 miles.
My front turn signal housing (2003 LeSabre) leaked a small amount of water which could be seen where it condensed on the lens. It probably got in through a drain hole or through brittle sealer between the lamp reflector and the lens. I had to replace the bulb holder because the contacts also were corroded - the glass part of the bulb separated from the metal contacts when I pulled it out of the bulb holder. I paid about $12-$13 on Amazon for the bulb holder. Then I used a small screwdriver to separate the lens from the reflector part of the housing, pulled out the hardened sealer / gasket, and replaced the sealer with silicone sealant like what is used for aquariums / glass. I let it cure for an hour as I kept pressure on the parts to make sure it sealed. Hopefully, I won't have to replace another bulb for another 9 years. NOTE: This had to be repeated for the other side.
If you didn't get out whatever is clogging the condensate drain line, then you might use a shop vac with a damp rag to seal the space around the drain line and suck out whatever is in the drain line. (I had to do this with my home AC drain line when insects got into the drain line to build a home out of dirt. I used a small shop vac which has a 1 1/4 inch diameter hose.)
Since water is seeping into the light assembly, you could make a new gasket to seal out water. Use silicone sealant where the original gasket may have become stiff. Also, put some sealant around each bolt / washer that attaches the assembly to the car. If you allow half an hour or longer for the sealant to set, it will be less likely to squeeze out. As for a spray-on paint, I would not recommend it unless you can remove 100% of the car wax that may have been used previously. If you could find some NeverWet, that would work. It was supposed to be available early this year, but I haven't found any on the market yet.
You may have gotten off cheap if they had to drill the bolts in the engine to remove them before replacing the power steering pump. That may have entailed moving the engine to gain access to have room for the drilling. WHY were those bolts loose? Had someone serviced or replaced the power steering pump and not torqued the bolts?
Have you removed the control assembly from the door of the car? It may be that the wires bringing power to the connector are disconnected or corroded since ALL of the functions have been lost.
This sounds like the ignition switch is in need of replacing. Off should be OFF, so something in the switch is making contact as though it is still ON. It's not likely something is shorted if you can still drive the car. Take it to a shop and get a diagnosis.
Take your car to a shop and have it checked on a machine that will determine what is wrong. Why would the lights have any effect on the heater? Your car still starts and drives normally and the battery is sufficient, right?
It would be best to get a book on your car. Unfortunately, the usual (Haynes) have one for earlier models that does not really cover the 2003 - even though it says it does. Block the wheels and make sure the parking brake is OFF. Remove a bolt holding the parking brake cable and remove the lower bolt on the inside of the wheel where the brake caliper is attached. Then you should be able to rotate the caliper upwards where the pads can be replaced. At auto parts stores you can get a tool that allows you to rotate the piston back into the brake cylinder, although the manuals say needle nose pliers will work. They might, but not if the brakes haven't been replaced in a long time. The piston has to be lined up so it is perpendicular to the caliper so the brake pads will fit into the piston grooves at the top. At least on the front brakes all one has to do is compress the piston.
If it is in Wisconsin, then being 14 years old it probably has more rust than the rocker panel. Fourteen years old? That's a little old to be buying as a used car. Try for something around 5 years to 10 years old. That way you will probably be driving it for several years. And WHY does the air conditioner not work? The compressor needed for the AC also is responsible for the defrosting/defogging done when the heater is working.