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Nick Danger

Saint Anne, IL

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Question Answered: 

1.Got enough refrigerant in system? 2.High and Low pressure sensors connected and functioning properly? 3.Compressor clutch pulling in when battery voltage applied(jumper wire direct from battery if neccessary--do not need enging running to do this) ? 4.Battery voltage present on Relay output to compressor clutch? 5.Control voltage to Relay coil? Fuse or breaker voltage present at output to relay?


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Question Answered: 

I have been through 3 starters on my 95 Legacy and now need a 4th. One time, it would not stop cranking until I removed power at the battery. The others failed as yours is doing. Banging it either frees up a stuck solenoid, shaft, or contact brushes. I'm wondering if the position on the engine at the top contributes to a heat related problerm. I am going to try some sort of cooling solution by insulating it or ventilation.


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Question Asked: 

Noticed this happening when A/C on and traveling fast enough to be locked up. Tach was fluctuating and could feel it locking and unlocking. Seems to do it right when maintaining speed. Now it does it without A/C on. Noticed that I can get it to lockup by reducing throttle position and load, but as soon as I increase TP, it unlocks. Too much of this gives light and code p0740. Did not notice the lockup problem until started using the A/C this summer. Tranny also will not shift into 4th gear in Winter until I am 5 miles up the road. Used magnetic heater on pan and decreased to 2-3 miles. I did get a "fluid temp..." something code at one point during the winter. Tranny also fits one of the brake band adjustment symptoms in the FSM. Shifting from 2-3, it "boggs down" like it's going into 4th, then "lets go" and revs through 3rd and shifts into 4th normally. I can avoid this if I let off the throttle at the right time for the correct duration, but it's tricky. FSM said to back off on brake band adjustment. I have not had any work done to the transmission. Bought used with 77000miles and now has 95000. Trying to figure out if it's feedback from sensors or actual problem with TC, solenoid, fluid pressure, or PCM.


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Question Asked: 

While traviling on I57, my car's front end began to vibrate. It felt like it was in the left wheel area. It got worse everytime I took my foot of the accel pedal. Braking seemed to make it worse but just slowing down makes it worse. Putting in neutral did not make a difference. Downshifting did not make a difference. Took it to shop who replaced badly corroded and pitted alloy wheel and rotor and put spare on. No more vibration for shop test and my ride home. On drive back to get my car at shop, it started shaking again and again worse on deceleration. Shop said he saw cv shaft "hopping" a little while testing, but since road test was good, did not think cv was cause of shaking. I injected grease and penetrant into left inner and outer bearings through boot and now no shake while accel or cruise but on deceleration it starts to rap. I feel it through the accel pedal linkage in the floor board, I also hear a clunking on deceleration. I jacked up left side and turned wheel back and forth and there is freeplay of about an inch or so but it seems that all parts of the shaft are moving together and the slop seems to be in the differential. There was squeaking and more clicking clunking before I lubed the bearings. The noises do not seem to happen while turning. What more can I do to isolate the problem?


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