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Autohaus Lake Norman
Any questions like that should always be directed to your owners manual. It gives you that sort of guidance. However, I realize that not everybody still has their owners manual. Often times, there will be a screw on cap on top of the motor (valve cover) that will either say "OIL" or give the oil's reccomended weight (for example "5W-30").
This happens when the blower control module shorts out. You can usually pull the fuse that is labeled HVAC/Blower (or something similar) or simply go straight to the blower motor and unplug it (will have a purple and black pair of wires running to it)
Often times, systems like EML and DSC overlap, so a failure in one system can cause all related systems to also shut down and set a code. So if you fix the EML problem, the DSC may fix itself. The only way to know why these lights are coming on, will unfortunately require the car to be diagnosed by a competent BMW mechanic. If the dealer isn't your thing, you can find good independent BMW mechanics by visiting these websites: www.bimmershops.com www.bimrs.org
Rack & pinion assemblies use rubber seals just like most other components and are often under high pressure (over 1,000 psi), so its not unusual for them to leak. On some models like the GMC Acadia, it common to see them leak as early as 20,000 miles! However, I would get a second opinion from another shop before I spend that kind of money on an "upsell" from one shop.
Being detailed shouldn't be the cause for the overheat. I suspect that you either have a faulty thermostat or faulty water pump. If you coolant was low from a leak somewhere (expansion tank for example), that can also cause overheating. If you recently had any work done, it could also be that there is an air pocket in the cooling system. Running the air conditioner puts extra load on the engine, which can facilitate overheating issues, if something is wrong.
Yes, aftermarket distributors will work just fine with your car. Many Firebirds of that year came with the 3.1L motor, it was the standard engine. I don't really see the distributor as being the cause for it running rich. Seems to me like it would be more of an injector issue (leaking, spray pattern, etc...) or even a faulty sensor (oxygen, etc...)
Really hard to say without looking at the vehicle in person, but one thing that usually causes that is contaminated brake fluid. If somebody put anything other than DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid in your master cylinder, the fluid can become contaminated and cause the rubber seals to swell up.
Not sure when you posted this, but if you still need to know, #1 cylinder is the first piston on the back row (closest to the alternator). Its 1, 3, 5 across the back and 2, 4, 6 up front.
Sometimes this feature can be switched from "always on" to "ignition only" by swapping fuse positions in one of the fuse boxes. If this is possible, it will be mentioned in the Owners Manual.
This indicates there is a failure in the Anti-lock brake system. Unfortunately, the only way to know what the problem could be, would be to have the ABS system scanned for fault codes. This requires a scanner capable of reading Chassis codes. Typical faults are Wheel Speed Sensors and Control Module (EBCM).