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Diagnostechs Mobile Service
Autozone may offer and A/C leak detector kit which includes a sniffer in the Loaner Tool Program. There are two ways and I employ both when I am looking for a leak. One is ultr-violet dye injected into the system, and the other is a sniffer. Ask if they offer it, but if not, you will have to either buy or rent it, or take it to a shop for service. I have discovered that the service port Schrader valves leak much more often than they should. Make a solution of a litlle bit of dishwashing liquid and water. Remove the service port caps and spray into the port. If it produces bubbles, you have found the leak. You can use this same soapy solution to spray all accessible connections and parts and where ever bubbles appear, there is your leak.
Verify correct engine coolant level. If the engine coolant volume is below spec, then it is possible that when you accelerate, the coolant temperature sender may be very briefly out of the coolant bath,if the level is even slightly low, which would cause the temperature fluctuation you describe. There might also be a wire grounding due to engine torque during acceleration. Move the engine wiring harness. Just grab it and pull on it to change it's position. There are two switches near the engine cooling system discharge. One is an ECTS( Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor), the other is an engine temperature sending unit. Their signals go to different areas. The ECTS supplies ECT data to the Engine management conputer while the temperature sender provides varying ground to the temperature guage dependant on coolant temperature. If you have digital instrumentaion, the temperature sender or any inappropriate ground will cause erratic outputs.
No, unless you mean a flash function to alert motorists and others. Is it a Town and Country? They often have a headlamp control module that enable lights to come on as the day darkens and when exiting your vehicle in your driveway during darkness to let you get in the house. If the module fails, it is difficult to predict which erratic malfunctions might appear.
The sunroof actuating cables or gear are stripped. Inspect or take to a local sunrof repair shop. Unless you are very highly mechanically inclined, that is a very difficult job. Replace the cables.
It can either be in one of two locations. The steering cloumn or on the side of the transmission.
Never splice. You may end up with many more problems. If the harness came out of an exact model and year, and trim level, the harness should be an exact fit. You should not have "Extra wires." Why did you decide to splice a harness?
You are blending three different issues. The starter solenoid is not retracting soon enough. Chock the wheels and make sure it is in neutral before proceeding if is has a manual transmission. Using a test lamp, have someone crank it while you probe the solenoid contact to see if it getting power or just not retracting. Announce to your helper, to crank it once you have connected to the starter solenoid trigger wire. Then announce stop! If the light goes out immediately, replace starter. If it gets power after your helper lets go of the key, replace the faulty component of the steering column lock assembly, likely in the ignition area.
Follow the larger diameter aluminum metal pipe near the evaporator connection. It is in that pipe. Read the A/C label before beginning work and do not add more refrigerant than that specified.
Replace the clutch master and clutch slave cylinders.
It may be that the steering shaft lower arm where it connects to the gear selctor cable is rubbing against the crossover harness just above the steering shaft arm. Remove the covers and look at the end of the gear selector under the instrument panel to see if the harness has fallen down and is being abraded by the gear selector shaft arm. If it is, then the repair involves removing the instrument cluster so you can wire tie, not tape like the factory has, the crossover harness to secure it so it is not near the gear selector shaft.