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I have seen this happen on several brands of cars, and I have had to repalce the steering column lock assembly. Sometimes the lock breaks internally and it cannot be repaired. See if KIA has a recall for that item. Have you used up your general warranty? If nothjing works then you must replace steering column lock assembly.
Replace strut assemblies, not just the shocks.
Does it have temperature or climate control? Typically, I would say it is stuck open blend door.
Your truck is under full warranty. Take it to the dealer. Check you panel dimmer switch to make sure it is not fully dimmed.
Check MAP sensor vacuum connections and circuits. Replace any broken or rubbery vacuum line, check air inlet hose. Is service engine soon lamp on?
Did you replace the wires in correct order? Maybe left anything disconnected? Recheck your work. Need more data.
The other respondent, Global Helper is correct. It can have many root causes. A failed head gasket is evident throughout the entire operating range not just as you describe, so I would rule out the head gasket for now. Fuel delivery is constant at all rpm ranges, but the pressure varies with throttle vacuum. See if you have enough fuel system pressure throughout the RPM range, check for open vacuum hoses, replace all if original or show signs of failure( too soft when squeezed). Vacuum and pressure hoses have opposite functions and are not the same. Do not substitute. You might need to scan it for codes. There was a specific tester called a Star Tester for your year model which incorporated what was called an EEC III system( 3rd Generation Electronic Engine Controls). This operation requires that specific scanner to diagnose the system if your Check Engine/Service Engine Soon, otherwise known as the MIL( malfunction indicator lamp)is illuminated. Often the TPS( Throttle Position Switch) fails at the position you mention because most operation takes place within the RPM range that correlates to that portion of the throttle position switch range. deposits. Why it happens is not necessary to discuss here and very lengthy. This is just the introduction to systems diagnosis. I am a former FoMoCo Warranty Specialist, Shop Foreman, Master Tech fully certified in all technical areas of Ford vehicles service and operations. A dirty throttle body is something that represents a fleetwide problem, and in the absence of a scanner is often confused as TPS failure. Find a can of Berryman's Carb Cleaner and an old toothbrush. Have someone floor the accelerator pedal while you spray cleaner into the trottle body, then brush it all around and spray the remaining after engine starts to flush it out. This is a required maintenance step. Respond after this is has been completed.
If a shop replaced it return to shop. If you replaced it read on. That system is fused by a link in the power distribution center. First, verify power to the thick wire at alternator, ( yellow or red, or black with yellow stripe). POWER? Check charging indicator, or BATT/ALT instrument lamp. If the lamp illuminates with ignition switch on, recheck your connections. NO POWER? Proceed to power distribution center, and check for blown or missing fusible link. It is a big fuze.
I do not understand your question. Need more data. If the blower does not run, check the fuse, then the physical appearance of the blower resistor connector block. Using a test lamp, verify power at red wire of resistor connector. I the resistor is deformed, you can buy a blower resitor, and connector pigtail as a replacement. Basically, if you have power and ground to the blower it will run unless it has completely failed. Since you state that all of the components are inoperative, I would begin with checking power distribution by first checking power to blower motor.
The other earlier comments could be correct, but it could also be caused by faulty/failed shock absorbers or a combination of anti-sway bar bushings/links, shock absorbers, or aft center of gravity load distribution, which would take the front load off the front axle. In regards to your comment about play in wheel, with engine off, steering wheel unlocked, grab the steering wheel at twelve o'clock and violently rock it between ten and two o'clock. If you hear clunking, you have worn steering linkage parts. Then have one person rock the wheel while another looks under it to see and touch for the noise source. Also check the pitman arm for looseness. The steering gear may need adjusting. Any of these condition in combination, or all of these conditions are at the root of your linear instability issues.
No fault codes set. Intermittantly runs rough on initial throttle opening only. I replaced the coil pack, all the vacuum hoses, ignition wire set, spark plugs, cleaned throttle body. Condition persists. I am thinking maybe a faulty ER valve or TPS, but they're not easy to get to so I'm holding off until I can get other opinions.