More About Points »
Rancho Santa Margarita, CA
Toyota states timing belt interval: 90,000 OR 10 years - whichever comes first. Best advisement - so as to not have other repairs be required, is to replace the complete timing belt set. Timing belt set is: timing belt, idler roller, tensioner roller, hydraulic tensioner adjuster, water pump and exterior drive belts if required. DO be wary - as some places are known to "double dip" on labor - charging the labor time on the timing belt AND the time of the water pump. Additionally, it the water pump is not replaced, leakage can occur due to wear on the bearings/seals with the additional tension with the new belt.
May have a damaged vacuum brake booster or something in that system, causing a vacuum leak. this could be causing you noted drivablity issues. Although, when in doubt - error on the side of safety and tow the vehicle. Lots of auto insurances have towing listed in the fine print on the policy, of if you have AAA. that would be ideal. Best bet is to have the vehicle taken to a VW specific shop, as they would be more versed on the specific repair processes and diagnosis on the German vehicle.
it depends on the exhaust setup and vehicle type. cats on a suburban should be a few hours. typically you cut out the old ones, tack weld in the new ones to set location. then you take out the merge pipe the cats are on and fully weld the cats, install new gaskets and reinstall merge pipe. and if the vehicle is driven in, add some time for it to cool so 1200* cats can be removed.
sounds like control head issue or vacuum signal hose issue, causing vent control door issue.
Best thing is to start by checking the fuse block. typically the one in the passenger compartment(dash) holds the fuses for accessory and the source for power. Sometimes is the cig lighter is shorted, can blow fuse under hood. GM has had the diagnostics port powered on the same circuit. >if thats not the case, most likely the vehicle would need professional diagnosis.
the system uses 2 drive motors. may just be debris in the track causing binding - or could be one of the motors (or both) may require replacement along with the drive cable system
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING 1. Raise and support vehicle. Manually turn power steering pump pulley a few times. Turn steering wheel lock-to-lock 5-6 times. Disconnect and ground ignition high tension cable. While operating starter motor intermittently, turn steering wheel lock-to-lock 5-6 times for 15-20 seconds. 2. Ensure fluid level does not fall below reservoir filter level by checking fluid often during bleeding. Reconnect ignition cable, start engine and allow to idle. Turn steering wheel quickly lock-to-lock until fluid level no longer decreases and no bubbles appear.
It would all depend on what type of smell is being noted. sometimes there may be a musty or mildew smell that is the a/c core having "growth" on it that may be needing to be cleaned. also could have issue with system leakage or a dirty cabin filter could even cause a smell concern
Unfortunately, we would need to see the vehicle. The 2005 Honda Civic is not equipped with distributor ignition. The 1.7L engine is direct spark coil on plug. It sounds like there may be a fusible link burned out or alarm intervention in starting. This vehicle would require specific diagnosis.
Would need to observe to determine which ones would be required. They are rubber/rubber hydraulic and support the engine and minimize movement. Damaged mounts can cause issue with wiring and hoses/etc as the engine moves too much.