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Des Moines, IA
look at the engine digit in your VIN number. (off hand cannot remember if it is the 8th digit or the 10th, one will be the engine code, the other the year.) if you have a "W" code, you have the Vortec. The other code for that year (non-Vortec) in a 4.3L IIRC is a "Z"
common failure point on older GM vehicles causing battery draw, glove box light, underhood light, under trunk light. remove these bulbs to see if the draw stops. If you consistently have this draw problem, you will end up burning up your alternator. The alternator is designed to maintain charge on the battery, NOT to charge the battery from flat. If you do this often enough, the alternator will give up the ghost.
does your vehicle have a single serpentine belt, or multiple v-belts? a serp belt system will have an automatic tensioner. If you have this with insufficient tension, the tensioner needs replaced. If you have v-belts, you must tighten the belt at the device designated for that particular belt. This could be your alternator, PS pump etc...
Is the lamp red or yellow? If red, there is a serious problem with your braking system. Could be caused by extremely worn pads, air trapped in brake line, or a brake system leak. Get the system checked by an experienced technician!
A failed vent and/or purge solenoid will not cause an air bag light to illuminate...
could it be the freeze plugs in the engine block?
DTC p1139 - Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Insufficient Switching Bank 1 Sensor 2 DTC p1258 - engine coolant temperature is more than 131°C (268°F). When the engine is overheated, DTC P1258 will set. The PCM will disable two groups of four cylinders by turning OFF the fuel injectors. By switching between the two groups of cylinders, the PCM is able to reduce the temperature of the coolant.
Sounds like there is not enough air going over the AC condenser. It is the radiator in front of the engine radiator. Is your fan shroud in good shape? Check the cooling fan clutch. Another option could be to add an external pusher cooling fan on the front of the condenser to help move some of the heat for you.
There should be two bolts holding the master cylinder to the booster assy, and then there will usually be 4 bolts holding the booster in place. They might come from the inside of the firewall (in the cabin) on some vehicles.
If all of your vacuum lines are good and connected properly you are left down to two things. Either you have a bad gasket somewhere in the induction system (throttle plate, intake manifold gaskets, cracked manifold etc.) Or you have a weak, or failed fuel injector. Please post your code, and we can take it further