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Is there an air filter inside the car interior,and when should it be replaced? Can this effect the amount of air flow from the vents?
The fuel pressure needs checked,you might just check the filter first for restricted flow!If the filter is open,check the fuel pump pressure,at the fuel rail,with engine at idle..Then the pressure regulator diaphram may be cracked causing inadiquate clossing off to the return to the tank ,this provides the max of pressure and volume for the injectors .Look for fuel leaking at the fuel pressure regulator diaphram housing.pull off the vac.line and look for fuel at the end of the line and the nipple on the regulator housing.Loosen the gas cap and see if this has any effect on performance,it may be at fault,dont forget to retighten!!!
This sounds like a toe out problem! And there may be a stabilizing shock that is supposed to help eliminate any wheel shimmy ,but also check for out of ballence ,due to a heavy amount of mud clumpted up on the inside of the wheel rim.If you like playing in the mud!Or a bent rim!Sounds like any alighn,ment done should help,but look for the most obvious first.Jack up both wheels and eye the rotation to see if both wheels rotate in a true even circle!Look for wobble and out of round tire tread!Bounce the front end,see how manny times the bumper comes up! 3 may mean really weak shocks!
not ever on a small block gm 5.7 or any other small block engines.It is harder to clean off all the intake manifold gasket materials,and you want to check the surface to see if it is good and flat,after cleaning to prevent any problems with leakes in the future.And the ends of the intake should be resealed.I,ve done a few Ford engines like this,not r&r the intake,but wasnt as easy,as doing the removal of the intake on the 390 cid.And didnot save any time either!
Inspect the governor's drive gear for excessive worn teeth,and the throttle presure adjustment,may be too much,or the cable is not adjusted properly.Inspect The second gear, accumulater servo,it may be stuck in its cylinder,or the return spring is broken.
Check rubber Body Mountings At all 4 corners!
The old weak coil syndrome,or moduale . You may be able to have them tested off the car if you find a jobber to assist you!A crankshaft sensor may be at fault too.
Add it on the low side of the system.This is the line that gets cold and is bigger in diameter than the high side pressure lines.Hope your useing guages,as a safety precaution,if it is a partial charge! Watch the site glass if there is one,on or near the dryer! Charge the system at above idle around 1200 rpm so it will stabilize pressures to acurate read outs.
The system uses a pressure switch to activate the compressor clutch.It has to have at least 50 psi of pressure for the compressor to run.This is a measure of safety so the compressor will get proper oiling while charging the system.Don't by pass the pressure switch,before refrigerant is added.The pressure switch should be located on or near the reciever dryer,on the high pressure side,of the system.
What is the temperature readout by the guage? Check coolant level in the reservoir.What is the antifreez boiling and freezing check? too much antifreez mixture can cause an engine too run hotter than if mixed correctly.A 50/50 mix is recomended! Dont add pure antifreez as needed in the summer months as this will cause poorer heat transfer from the radiator to the flow of air!