More About Points »
It is just the electrical pressure control solenoid that is acting up. Any good specialized transmission shop, or the dealer can fix you up at a reasonable price.
To have all 4 go at the same time is very unusual, if not impossible. The O2 system on this Liberty has the power to it controlled by the PCM. The P0038, "HO2S Heater Control Circuit High" tells me that there is power being delivered to the heater circuit and the problem lies either internally in the sensor, or it is a ground issue. Disconnect all the sensors and on the body side of the connectors, check the black with orange stripe wire for continuity to ground using an ohmmeter. If 1 or more show no ground, you can either trace the wire back through the harness to find the break, or just splice in another wire to the black/orange and connect the other end to a good ground point. All 4 sensors share a common ground point. If the grounds check good, with the ohmmeter, check each sensor for heater operation. There should be continuity through the heater. The wire colors are as follows, sensor 1, bank1, brown/orange to black/orange. S1B2 brown/white to black/orng. S2B1 and S2B2 brown to BLK/O. If any of the 4 have no continuity, change that sensor. If all checks out good, with key on, engine off, check for power on pin 4 of each sensor, if no power, repair open circuit(s).
It is a known problem with this type of charging system. The large 3 wire plug internally gets loose causing a no charge condition. All that is needed is a replacement plug. They are available at any good auto parts store for about $10, or the dealer for $20. It is a good idea to change it ASAP, since there has been reports of electrical fires due to this plug.
2 drive cycles of approx. 1 hour each time. You have to drive it long enough to light up the converters.
Check the battery connections and especially the ground connection at the engine. Usually a bad starter turns cold but has problems when warmed up by the engine. If the ground at the engine is loose or corroded, the heating effect of the engine expands the terminals and hardware enough to make a decent contact.
The turbo Mazda has the same issues as Volkswagen. The only oil that can be used is 100% synthetic. The regular oil gets burned by the heat of the turbo and turns it into chunky bits of carbon that plug oil passages. The remedy is to perform an oil pressure test first, then drop the oil pan and physically clean the oil pick up tube and pan. If the pressure was low, replace the oil pump as well. Once together, fill it with synthetic 5w30 with a new filter, add some Seafoam engine treatment and drive for at least 100 km. ( 60 miles). Check the condition of the oil, and if dirty, do another oil change with filter. Repeat the procedure until the oil remains clean for the test period.
definitely go with Bimmer. I've used it a few times with no issues. Just remember to change the water pump at the same time. All you will need besides that is an intake gasket set. It is also a good idea after the tube is in place and the sealer applied, to let it set overnight before installing the water pump and assembling the intake.
1800 last year in maintenance. How much in repairs? It's not very much. Even if this year you top 2400, what decent car could you buy for 200 a month?
My vote is for the ignition switch. A bad alternator wouldn`t stop you from turning the key.
Either or both the select cable and shift cables have popped their holding clips from the shifter assembly, or the shifter assembly itself is broken.