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Is the rattle starts right away when you crank the engine? I'd get the catalytic converters checked first, than the rest of the exhaust system, including all the heat-shields. Zee
No, the adjustment is not required - unless they are noisy. If the valves are quiet they are fine. My 4Runner has the same engine with almost 59K miles and it is quiet as new. I always use 5W30 Mobil1 full synthetic oil. Zee
Try a different gas station - I suggest Shell, and try the premium fuel. You should complain at your local dealer and ask them to run diagnostics on it - still should be warranty on it.
Is the car overheats? Would the fan runs when you turn the A/C on? Did you check the fan relays?? Zee
The suspension and steering includes many parts and most could cause the described sound. For your own - and other drivers safety it would be good to have a technician check the car on a lift. Most shop would give you a free estimate. Zee
Try www.alldata.com Sorry, I just re-read your help request and if you are not sure about working on the airbag system try to consider a qualified technician. It takes more than basic repair skills. There are few reason for this. -you might need some special tools, (it's usually a long TORX driver on Chrysler) -you need to take serious pre-measurements before working on SRS !! -you need to lock the clock spring, otherwise it will be damaged. -need special tools to disconnect A/C lines -the technical / repair manual is NOT a training manual, it will give steps to a trained technician. i.e.: a builder wants to build a house and checks the manual, it would be something like this: 1, prep the land (won't tell you to cut trees, and get in a Bobcat...) 2, make a foundation (won't tell you how to mix cement) 3, build the walls according to the local codes (won't tell you the codes..) etc.... Don't misunderstand me, I'm not trying to judge your mechanical skills, but I have seen way too many car owners to get their cars to our shop on a tow truck because they tried to save money and do something way over their had and cost them double or triple at the end. Zee
Need to remove the transmission, then pull out torque converter. Remove old seal, install new one. Reinstall torque converter, and MAKE SURE IT'S ALL THE WAY IN - ENGAGED WITH THE PUMP, otherwise big problem! Make sure all the fasteners are torqued CORRECTLY (over tightening doesn't mean correct torque!) fluid level is correct after repair. While you are at it, replace the rear main seal also.
Evap System - Low Purge Flow. It's an emission related code (well, now days almost everything effects emission) The fuel vapors are being re-routed to a charcoal canister, than back to the engine. They have solenoid valves installed, which could be bad, pinched or disconnected evap hose, etc.. Let a qualified technician check the system. Zee
You know, it's man-made. Beside that manufacturers are try to save as much as possible on parts so the quality isn't as great as use to. You would be surprised how many parts are failing on high-priced, low mileage luxury vehicles. But hey, thanks for warranty and road side assistance. ; ) It might be a good idea to get a GOOD extended warranty on it. Zee
Just buy a welding tip cleaner kit. It has different size of needles, with about 2,5" length. You can use that for loooong years to clean the nozzles on different cars/ nozzles. There are some cars that comes with a little in-line filter installed and can clog also. Zee