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Dave Jhm

Sonoma, CA

Supervising auto repair for the last 20 years. Direct experience with Ford/Lincoln/Mercury; Hyundai, Honda, Toyota, Scion, Mazda, Mitsubishi, Chevrolet, Cadillac, medium and heavy trucks, motor homes, buses and more.


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Question Answered: 

It's hard to say what is happening. Was there any symptoms prior to changing the plugs? Also - I don't think i've ever gotten one of these trucks to go that fast! (100 mph after conversion...) Check for crossed ignition wires or faulty ignition wires.


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Question Answered: 

Sounds like a faulty blower motor resistor. This will classically cause the switch to work on only one or two speeds.


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Question Answered: 

No computer resetting needed. If the RPM goes up, and you have no power, I am thinking of transmission issues. Is this an automatic transmission powered vehicle? If you are saying it's like it's not getting enough gas, have you checked fuel pressure? And lastly - sometimes a restricted exhaust (catalytic converter) can cause power issues. Another area to check.


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Question Answered: 

https://repairpal.com/estimator?car_type_id=744 Check out the Estimator tool link right there - you can get your pricing estimate ranges.


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Question Answered: 

You really need to basically check to see what is missing - fuel, spark, air... I suspect fuel or spark, have a fuel pressure test performed when the failure occurs - check the ignition system. Catching it while failing is the key, because when it starts, the same things are not happening, and it's harder to diagnose.


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Question Answered: 

Not necessarily. I would only replace what you know to be failed. Since the inner does not have to be removed to replace the outer, it is unnecessary.


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Question Answered: 

Not cheap! For the relay, you have to access your bumper and grill. For the motor, it comes as an assembly. Parts for the relay and the motor assembly - probably around $800 for the motor assembly installed, and the relay.


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Question Answered: 

I can at least pass on the info -- The resistor shows 0.5 hours, and the blower motor shows 0.4 hours. Should be a fairly basic job. Keep in mind that when you replace the resistor, you should have a thorough look at the wiring connector that plugs into it, as often they overheat and become damaged.


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Question Answered: 

Sounds like a couple different issues. The anti-lock light is telling you there is a fault in the system with either a wheel sensor that is not working, a sensor indicator ring that is dislodged, or a wiring issue. (Could be a module or pump, but this is not common.) The rubbing sound - if it's sounding like from inside the car, the steering shaft may be making some noise; if it sounds like outside, I would have an inspection of your steering and suspension performed to see if there is any obvious signs of issues. The odometer light could be only a bulb, but could also be a circuit in the cluster itself.


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Question Answered: 

The only problem is - not sure where the cold water would be coming from if you had a leaking heater core! That water is very hot, steaming, and sweet smelling (like coolant). I think what you experienced is an overflowing plenum full of water from the evaporator that cannot drain for some reason. Not sure though about your empty cooling system though and how that figures in.


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