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The multi-function switch (wiper switch, turn signal switch) may have an internal fault. Start checking there. Good luck!
Your headlight switch may have overheated, and the wiring connector at the back may be melted. Remove the switch from the dash and separate the connector. Check for melting or burned wiring. This is the first place to look. Good luck!
Just on the off chance...check the inertia fuel cut of switch in trunk. Sometimes this button kicks out cutting off fuel pressure due to some kind of impact. On a wild occasion, this button can be pressed and your car will start. Secondly, check to see if an anti-theft light is flashing on cranking. 1996 was Lincoln's first foray into anti-theft keys and you could have an anti-theft system issue. Good luck!
You may have a 5 speed automatic or a 6 speed automatic transmission. If you have a 5 speed automatic, the fluid is checked with a special pump that attempts to add fluid through a fill check plug within the drain plug of the transmission pan. You will likely need to seek a repair shop or dealership for this. For the 6 speed, there is a small dipstick on the passenger front of the transmission case under the vehicle. Here, you can at least check the fluid level, but you cannot add fluid without the special pump mentioned above.
Is the A/C compressor turning on and off/cycling as it should? Is there condensation forming on the accumulator (dryer) under the hood and are the hoses cold after running a while? If the answers to these questions are "yes", you could have an issue with the temperature control and temperature blend doors. Do you have automatic temperature control? If the compressor does not cycle, or cycles quickly, and your accumulator is warm, make sure there is sufficient refrigerant in the system. Check the cycle switch and wiring connector to make sure there is no open circuit there. What was the reason the compressor needed replaced in the first place? If there was contamination in the system from debris, you could have contamination still restricting flow somewhere. I assume you replaced the orifice tube when you replaced the accumulator... Good luck...
Won't turn over...as in...will not crank? Engine cranks and will not start? Unfortunately really need a little more information to help point you in the right direction...
You have replaced the bulbs, and I am assuming the bulbs were the correct ones (dual filment...probably...#3457...). Next, the modules in this vehicle that control lighting do provide fault codes for the circuits, so you can scan for codes if you have access to a scan tool. If you have no code information, here is some theory on how the system works. Your brake light switch on your brake pedal sends a signal through wiring, and through some splices and wiring connectors, independently continues the signal to the middle brake light and sends the same signal to the Smart Junction Box (SJB). From the SJB, it sends direction independently to the left and right rear bulbs. Since your concern is for both left and right rear bulbs at the same time, you would probably have a concern in the SJB itself (which is a programmable module...check for water intrustion maybe causing a short?), or the wiring from the SJB through the dash itself. Would be a tough diagnosis to trace the wiring behind the dash. Usually it is not that complicated. Check for power first at the brake light sockets just to ensure the bulbs are not initially at fault. Good luck!
I'm hearing from you that it's a "no crank" situation. Is this a manual transmission Ranger? Since you've ruled out the starter and battery, it could be related to the Clutch Pedal Position switch, which ensures your clutch is engaged prior to letting the vehicle start. If it's automatic the transmission range (TR) sensor could be reading in a gear other than "Park" or "Neutral". Or, for your automatic your shift linkage may be off, telling you it's in Park or Neutral, and really not being there. Otherwise, check the starter relay, and even check the battery cable connections and the connection at the starter. The wires all must be well secured and be free of any corrosion. Good luck!
Looking at your engine compartment fuse and relay box, there are 3 square relays on the top left going down. The second one down is the Fuel Pump relay.
When you say, "My air and heat stopped working", it raises many questions to clarify your concern. My best guess is that you mean no air is blowing out the vents. There are a few reasons this could happen. Yes, there is a fuse that if blown would affect the blower motor's power (Maxi-fuse #105 in the fuse box near the battery...it's 40amps...or...fuse #7 in the dash, a 5amp fuse...or fuse #24 in the dash, a 10amp fuse). If those fuses check out OK, then you could have a problem with your Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC) system, or the Blower Speed Controller within that system. Last, you could have a blower motor that simply will not work anymore. Good luck with solving your concern!