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Hi...I have a P0500 code on my ram van.It means 'vehicle speed-sensor malfunction'. Am I confusing this speed-sensor with the transmission output shaft speed-sensor or is the v.s.s.related to the A.B.S system? I am thinking maybe I have a transmission problem..but maybe not..........Thanks for any response.
The fuel-supply line quick-connector on my Dodge Ram van is leaking and it is impossible right now to purchase a replacement of any kind.I examined it and has concluded that the vinyl o-ring is the problem,not the rubber o-rings that are also installed with the vinyl one.I'm thinking that I could cut the connector off and connect the line to the tank with a piece of rubber-hose and two clamps.....Is there any thing wrong with that idea? I mean, regular clamps should hold the pressure......part of the line is connected with a piece of rubber-hose and no clamps as original equipment.....agree or disagree?....Thanks for a prompt response.....frankiedon.
Dodge ram van 5.2L ; I have had a catalyst and evap monitors flashing on my carmd code reader for over a year.I have replaced both oxygen sensors before and aft. Driven the van numerous times stop and go etc. Do the flashing monitors mean that something is wrong or just that the monitors are not running and if they are not running would'nt that mean that something is not functioning?....Confused. Thank you .
I removed the resistor which is in the upper part of the a/c box and looked at the 3-springs.All are intact.
There is a sensor or solinoid on the extension housing of the trans. It is high up in a corner .I wish I knew what it is because it leaks fluid but I don't want to trouble it before I know what it does and if it just needs a new rubber ring.Any one knows ? Thanks for any help.
Need to know if my transmission is a 36rh or 46rh. It has electronic overdrive because it can be shut off with a button.I have gathered some info. that seems to be saying that the trans. in the 1995 to 2001 1500to 2500 v8 5.2L is 36rh.On the other hand the 1500 to 3500 1995to 2003 v8 5.2L has 46rh.It is one or the other but I can't decide.My van has a 318 engine. Is there a more specific way to be sure? thanks for any help.
Well: the circuit, the bulbs, the fuse, the relays,the switch itself.The sockets that the bulbs are in could be corroded: remove the lens to see if corrosion is present and if the bulb is dark,which means it is blown, and I would replace all the bulbs while I am at it because they tend to blow close together.the switch could be worn and loosing contact inside. The circuit wires could be short-circuiting somewhere .Use diaelectric grease to pre vent corrosion.
Did you have it scanned to see if a diagnostic code is present: that would help a great deal by pointing in the right direction.If you can't get the van to an auto zone for a scan, then it will be necessary to buy a cheap scanner at Amazon.com.However,check the p.c.v. valve by pulling it out and see if it has strong vacuum and check for vacuum leaks generally and also check the emissions control system like the charcoal canister ,the purge valve solinoid ,leak detection pump and removable filter,the vent line to the tank.My dodge ram has a replaceable filter connected to the leak detection system.Check all the hoses for cracks .Normally it is done with a smoke machine which is very expensive.But if you squeeze the hoses at the connection points one can see if they are soft and musshy.The most difficult part to check is where the vent line connects to the tank because it means lowering the tank.
I've learned that the p.c.m has to be flashed before installation.And I assume the battery is in top shape: never over look the battery when having this kind of a problem .Have it load tested.Since so many things have been replaced I would also go back and check over my work to be sure that something is not connected wrong or left loose or disconnected.
Hi,All problems don't show a d.t.c. so I've been learning.High idle speeds can be caused by vacuum leaks or a sticking idle control motor.Visually check the throttle cable first for binding.Run the engine and listen for hissing noise from vacuum hoses or spray soap water on the hoses and if the engine idle changes you know you found the leak.Also check the p.c.v.valve by pulling it out and feel for a vacuum and see if it rattles which means it is good.To learn where all these parts are on your model consult a repair manual available at auto shops.A vacuum leak could show up in the brake pedal too. If the brake booster is affected the pedal will feel hard to press.The vacuum hoses are connected to the intake manifold or throttle body.
Hi, Back-firing can also be caused by too much oxygen in the exhaust system,which causes combustion in the exhaust system.So check for any air leaks in the exhaust system.And check the air injection system if the 1995 ram has one.I also recommend a repair manual if you havn't one yet.They are available at auto shops.I suppose the question is: Is the back-firing the cause of the stalling or is the stalling the cause of the back-firing? Frank.
Is the battery in top shape because a battery that's on the way out can make it appear that electrical components are faulty .I have Dodge Ram too and when I had the same problem I took the air control motor out and cleaned it, but the battery was past its 3yr. life expectancy.After replacing the battery I wonder if that was the problem was a all along.Because the radio is so much brighter now.Before diagnosing anything it makes a lot of sense to have the battery load-tested or replace it, if it is near it's 3yr.end of life.The p.c.m. needs 5volts to function and everything is controlled by the p.c.m.
It's best left to a trans. shop because special tools are required and knowledge.
Jack the car safely on jack-stands or ramps and examine lines closely to see if they are electrical wire harness come loose or vacuum hoses or gas lines to the tank.If they are crimped, sounds like gas lines or vacuum plastic lines or maybe brake lines. If in doubt and it can't be fixed at home,then have it towed to shop.
If everything is dead ,then I would suspect the battery or main fuse .Check the main fuse or loose wiring .
Is it consistant with lost of power and coolant coming from the exhaust.Condensation on warm up is normal from the exhaust but if coolant is coming from the exhaust and you have coolant in the oil plus loosing power,then it's a blown head-gasket.A pressure test on the cooling system or a copression test on the engine will confirm the diagnosis.