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Ive used a clear silicone to seal windshields before. Permatex makes a clear windshield silicone sealant. It seems to work ok, I have used it on an old (1967) Chevy truck I own in the past (20 years ago) and it seems to still be holding. You can try it if you can find it.
its possible that the heater hot/cold blend door in the heater is broken (Common problem with rangers and explorers) I just replaced mine for the same problem. The door is plastic and the plastic fatigues at the socket where the control motor attaches to the door and breaks. The instructions say to remove the HVAC plenum (Heater assembly) but with a little patience and the proper parts and tools it can be done without removing the dash to get to it. To see if this is the problem remove the glove box to access the heater temp control servo motor (white box w/4wire connector) You have to pry it off the mounting pegs - gently! turn on the ignition and heater, move the temp knob and watch the peg in the bottom of the motor, it should turn slowly. If it does then the door is broken. If it doesn't then the servo motor has konked out. Before you put it together feel where the peg fits into the blend door. if you feel any rough edges in the D shaped socket the door is broken and you will have to replace the door.
Where is the coolant leaking from? Is it pooling under the vehicle? Is it getting into the motor oil? Need more Info
Usually if the "Hub" for the AC compressor clutch will not turn it means that something inside the AC compressor has failed and caused the compressor to lock up. To answer your question the compressor has suffered an internal failure causing it to lock up. I would suggest you take it to a qualified mechanic to evacuate the system and replace both the compressor and the inline filter along with flushing out both the evaporator (radiator inside the dash that blows cold air) and the condensor (radiator in front of the engine radiator that removes the heat from the freon) along with the lines. Usually when an AC compressor locks up or fails it sends tiny bits of steel and aluminum through out the system. If you have the compressor replaced and they dont do the flush out these tiny bits of metal will destroy your new compressor.
You might try checking the fuse to the fuel pump. It's common for these pumps to pull higher than normal amperage and pop the fuse. If the fuse is good, locate the fuel filter, it'll be under the car. If youv'e recently had it changed it's possible that it is installed backwards (Ive seen this happen and still run.) If its in right when was the last time it was changed out? It's possible that it's in dire need of being changed, but if its that bad, you may have to have the fuel pump replaced (Its in the tank) it can be done at home, but if you make a habit of running it low (Fumes) and you filled it up with gas it can be fun dropping the tank full of gas. Have patience when you do this though. If you replace the pump or have it replaced make sure you replace the pre-filter (its either a sock looking thing or a paper filter) on the inlet side of the pump. I have seen these filters collapse and cut off fuel flow keeping it from being picked up by the pump. I hope this helps you out some.
My 1997 Ford Explorer has a malfunctioning heater hot/cold blend door (Socket the actuator attaches to is broke) and I have purchased the Dorman replacement door, however I do not have the time necessary to take the vehicle out of commission to r&r the whole dash assembly just to replace the door. Is it possible to replace the door from under the bottom of the HVAC box using a rotary cutting tool? Is it necessary to remove the dash and if it is unavoidable where do I find the instructions to remove the dash assembly to access the HVAC box?