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Theodore

Huntington, NY

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Question Asked: 

I start my car, it sounds fine, I drive for a few feet, and the engine sputters like it's running out of gas. After a few seconds, it starts running normally again, and continues running normally for the rest of the trip. It might happen more often on humid days? Not sure.


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Question Asked: 

My SRS light often comes on after someone has sat in the passenger seat. I don't know the exact cause, but I can reset it and make it go away. The code is always 7-2, "Internal failure of SRS unit".


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Question Asked: 

My SRS and check engine lights keep coming on. I reset the SRS light but it will come back on a few weeks later. The check engine light goes on and off every few days. SRS code is 7-2 "Internal failure of SRS unit". Engine light code is P0420: Catalyst efficiency below threshold bank 1, which might be the catalytic converter or pre-cat. I've heard rumors that both of these might be covered by warranties. Is that true? I'm not the original buyer of the car. Not sure if that matters.


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Question Asked: 

1. If I'm stopped and try to accelerate, the car acts like it's in neutral for a second or two and then lurches into gear. 2. While accelerating, it will sometimes feel like it's not shifting into gears quickly enough. Other times it will feel like it's shifting too soon. 3. Sometimes it will feel like the transmission is shifting back and forth between gears quickly, and it jerks 4. Sometimes there are scraping noises at low speeds that go away at higher speeds 5. Sometimes there is a clattering noise in park that goes away in between park and reverse


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Question Asked: 

When I brake hard, the brakes stutter, like the ABS is working, and then after I move again, it clicks a few times. I think this is just the ABS "self-test" and is normal. Correct? However, this clicking sound also occurs if I turn on the hazard lights while parked, and then the ABS light comes on as if there's a problem. This also happens if the wheel is turned to the right and I turn on the right turn signal. It doesn't happen while turning right with the left turn signal, and it doesn't happen while turning right if the turn signal is off. It happens even if I'm stopped, with the wheel turned to the right, and I turn signal right. I imagine this is an electrical problem. Where might I look to figure out what's causing it?


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Question Asked: 

I had my car towed a few weeks ago and then had the fuel pump replaced. Ever since, there's been a rumbling or grinding noise while moving and veering right. There's no such noise while turning left. There's no noise while turning at intersections, just while driving down the road and turning the wheel to the right to go around curves, etc. It's a continuous pitched noise, like if you drove down the rumble strips on the highway, but quieter. I feel it in the steering wheel. It gets higher in frequency at higher speed. I would think that the towing chains broke some plastic which is rubbing against the wheel, but I don't see any. I will try to get under the car and get a good look.


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Question Answered: 

If the bolts are torque-to-yield, like they are in my 1995 Cavalier, then they NEED to be replaced each time they are removed. If they don't replace them the gasket will fail again.


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Question Asked: 

My cooling system constantly pushes out whatever coolant I put into it. If I don't watch it, it overheats. The coolant is being pushed out by air, but no matter how many times I fill it and bleed it, there is still air getting into the system, and not much coolant getting out. Is this definitely a head gasket leak or could it be something else? It seems like the "air" mostly gets into the system with the engine running. It definitely gets some air introduced while it is warming up (but not after it has warmed up?), and there is a sudden surge of pressure when I shut down the engine, which is worse after it has warmed up. I drove it 800 miles recently with no problems, but driving half an hour to work every day causes it to push out all the coolant and/or overheat.


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