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My chevy 3.1L V6 95 engine recently has high-idle RPM ( about 1500), which last unusually long time, after the engine got first started in the morning after an over-night park. After that, the idling RPM seems fine. Prior to this, the first start-up idle RPM sometimes fast settled to normal RPM, but sometimes slower. The IAC valve's terminal resistances has been checked okay according to a specification. And the morning temperature has not varied much! Your feedback is appreciated!
My chevy lumina 95 3.1L V6 has its alternator's charging output varies between 13V. to 14V. during a day of normal driving. Is it okay or not? Note: The alternator's cables are all checked fine. Thank you in advance!
MY 1995 LUMINA-SEDAN 3.1l v6 engine at idling, recently starts to intermittenly stall with metalic clicking noise from the front of the engine around power steering pump, water pump or so. I have not been able to pinpoint it yet. The noise sounds almost like solenoid clicking, but louder. After the noise stops, the engine's RPM slightly moves up (like when the A/C compressor turn off). No error codes show up from OBD scanning. Also, this may be related: while driving at constant steady accelerator about 2000RPM, the engine RPM intermittenly surged and dropped, out of control. The water pump is about 8 month new, but the power steering pump has about 130K miles or more, of usage; and the engine is rebuilt with about 8 month of driving. Thank you for your assistance in advance!
I think it is IAC (idle air control valve). It locates near the air throttle body. removing two bolts and the IAC can be taken out to check or replace. Also check if the air channel is clogged. good luck
My Chevy lumina-sedan 3.1L V6, 1995's ECU module shows the 3X Crankshaft position sensor's signal error. The sensor was removed and has been reinstalled. Does it require retraining the ECU? what is the right sensor voltage from cranking the engine in order to diagnose this sensor? If need to replace, what is the best way to reach it? it locates on the back side of the engine block near firewall! Thanks in advance.
I recently seen my 95 Chevy Lumina-Sedan 3.1L V6's auto transmission fluid leaking (spurting out!?) around its fluid( oil ) pan, even after retightening the pan bolts to the specified 120 inches-lbs., from about 97 inches-lbs. (At the 6-month-ago fluid change, the pan bolts were not torqued tight and the fluid leaked, so I torqued it to 97 inches-lbs. and the fluid stopped leaking for 2-3 months). Its dipstick always pops up, so I wonder if the fluid pressure may be too high, and the fluid vent or the drain-back holes may be plugged. I'd like to check the vent and drain holes, please let me know where they locates on the transmission block. My auto-transmission is 4 speed (4T60E). Your prompt advice will be appreciated. Thank you in advance.
Some stores use a piece of paper to check the quality of brake fluid, like litmus test. If its color indicates the amount of copper etc. in the brake fluid. But also important is the water content in the brake fluid, which affects its boiling point. So, I wonder when to change brake fluid for my chevy GM 3.1L with ABS system under normal driving conditions? how to tell? thanks in advance
I had my auto transmission fluid+filter changed at a reputable shop a few months ago. But recently I'd noticed some small leaks at edge of the pan cover, so I checked the bolts, and they were loose. I tighten the bolts somewhat, and the fluid leaking less. I'd like to what is the right tension (in ch-lbs) for tightening the bolts? My auto-transmission is 4 speed (4T60E). Thank you for your advice!
My chevy lumina-sedan 1995 3.1L's oil-level sensor at the bottom of the oil pan has just not worked well, but there is oil in the engine, reading directly from the dip stick. So, I would like to temporarily bypass the oil-level sensor at its connector, so that its red warning light on the instrument panel will not show up. Please advise, thanks!
I suspect that my Lumina-sedan 3.1L 95's anti-theft relay is malfunctional, and giving me troubles starting the engine, such as low or no voltage on the starter's solenoid terminal (S). How to check it remotely? Since it is buried below the passenger-side dash board, it is quite diffcult to access. If I use a wire jumper to bypass the relay, will that cause other problems, electrically, long-run?