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There is no temp sender on this vehicle. Is the engine temp mechanical controlled thru the BCM or PCM? All other gauges work fine and there is no CEL on. It does have the temp sensor at the front of the left head. I know a BCM replacement requires work with a TECH II scanner and online with GM and about $800 at the dealer. Thank you for any input.
Working on this as a crank and no start, pulled plug and grounded it, no spark, went to end of fuel rail and pushed in the shrader valve, some fuel came out and stopped, while pushing in shrader valve turned key on, no fuel, cranked, no fuel, looked at the fuses at the drivers side near battery and find no burned fuses, believe it to be the ignition coil pack and believe that has module combined in it. Could this component control spark and fuel? Thanks for any help.
As I last stated in my original post about this new rig to me I cleared codes and have not come back. What is confusing is that has OBDII connector under dash and also has diag link box for TE1 and E1 ability for code retrieval. Was manufactured in 09/94. Why does it have the OBDII connector under the dash? I did attach my scanner and was able to retrieve codes and clear. Thanks for any info.
Ok guys, I usually answer questions but I am stumped on what I got here. Just bought this truck, manufactured 09/94, says meets Calif. emissions for year 1995 but this has both the E1/TE1 diagnostic code setup under the hood so can count code blips and also has OBDII diag link under the dash. Has CEL on but runs fine. Was able to pull two codes, P0420 and P0510 for oxygen sensor prob and TPS prob, I attached my scanner and retrieved them and then cleared and will drive to see if come back. I recently fixed broken crossover pipe between EGR housing and back of exhaust manifold. This truck starts right up, idles high till goes into closed loop, runs fine with no misses and no power problems. What do I have here? If the codes come back I will do diag and report back. Thanks in advance. Always owned Chevy's and Harley's so not used to working on it as I have ran shops for years and haven't done much wrenching except at home.
Ok, I got one for you. I normally answer these but I am a little stumped. The pass side headlight actuator motor started to make this groaning/howling/vibrating noise when opened or closed. It opens and closes smoothly. No skipping like I would expect with a failing actuator. The weird thing is that now when you set the door locks with the key fob the headlights cycle open and close with the same noise happening. If you lock with the interior door locks does not happen and then if use the key fob to unlock the cycle again happens with the noise at same time. Never did the open/close cycle till noise started. When turn on or turn off the headlights from inside it happens when opening and closing but will stay up till turn off the switch. I am tempted to replace actuator motor but unsure why does not skip when opening/closing if gearing is stripped and I do not believe the cycling open/close will stop with replacement. Thank you in advance for any help. Wife's car so must fix somehow, get what I mean?
Does anyone of the Master Techs out there have any labor guide links they could forward for some of the items that are not covered in estimator link? I no longer am at a shop where I could look this stuff up. Common one seems to be belt tensioners. Thanks...
Lots of times blend door problems cause the linkage to pop off, may have to do some disassembly-like replacing heater core-to get far enough to see problem. Need to verify door movement to allow linkage to not bind.
Has this engine overheated recently? Could be first signs of coolant in oil indicating head gasket problems. May not have milky oil yet. Head gasket failure is almost always from something that causes it and not just random. Typically overheat. If end up doing head gaskets for repair make sure to monitor on restart and verify cooling system operation.
Roy is right on for this problem. He is stealing my thunder...lol...
Agreed, the level is not read with dash gauge. Pressure is. Check to make sure is plugged in to switch under hood. If engine has no tap noise then is likely a switch. If is easy enough to get to then use oil pressure tester and check oil pressure on cold start and after engine is warm.
Sounds like master switch ground circuit problems. Doubt if is motor(s). Motors respond to inputs from switches.
Self canceling portion of switch is likely culprit. These two are spot on.
Check with belt(s) off for any pulley alignment problems and seizing. Tensioner sounds like culprit.
Agree with Roy, careful with disassembly and all should be ok.
Check the throttle position sensor voltages and adjust/replace as needed.
Sounds like fan hitting shroud from a bad motor mount allowing the engine to torque and lift when accel in reverse. Check that out asap.
That you know of do these work? Did recent head gaskets, surface head, valve job, used Fel Pro head set, did not use any sealer on head gaskets when reassembled, when sits overnight and restart after runs for a bit can see some white smoke out tailpipe, nothing like when gaskets went completely out, losing small amount of coolant, pressure test shows no signs on ground, thinking about using head gasket repair in can to try to seal against white smoke. Any suggestions. Am retired ASE Master Tech. Thanks