More About Points »
Rocky Mount, VA
There are 2 separate switches, I believe, it seems to me that it should be a fuse that has blown! Don't think both switches have failed... TEST fuses with a test light to be SURE that's not the problem... Test ALL fuses...Especially the high amp fuses!! It's easy to miss one!!... Also test for battery voltage at the blower resistor and blower motor with key on and blower on high. Possibly a ground issue also...
By testing!! ... What's the code number?... ANY work done on it lately??
If you still have the old lines, try them back to see how they go without forcing them to fit!!
Ever think to 'reply' back to your other question???
Sounds high to me! However I don't know the extent of what exactly needs to be done either!!
First need to know.... Did you change the actual ignition 'electrical' switch down on the column under dash... OR ... The ignition lock cylinder, with new keys, up at the steering wheel?? There is a big difference!! In other words... Is this a new key??
95% of the time it's the plug wires breaking down!! Scanner with misfire data and an ohm meter will find this problem!!!!
Common problem on the 2.2 with that mileage!! Camshaft, crankshaft and oil pump seals must be replaced... Might as well do the timing belt and water pump while that's being done... All of this can be purchased as a kit that will save a bit of money. I've done many of them!!! Can't give you a price... Call around for pricing in your zip code.. This engine is very capable of going 500k ... if treated 'half way' descent - That's NO BS!!!!
Change BOTH !!! Asking for trouble if you don't... There is no primary, they both work together..(*parallel*)....IN FACT, the old battery will drain the new battery down to its current state of charge!!... Replace them both with 'matching' top quality batteries!!!! Test charging system.... Problem solved!