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 Master

Master

2318 points

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Your.Mechanic

Fairfield, CA

Hello! I am an ASE Re-certified Master Auto Technician for almost twenty years now. ASE Re-certified in L-1 Advanced Engine Performance for almost fifteen years. CA-licensed Smog Inspector since 2004. I want to be your RepairPal! YEAH! I made RepairPal Master in less than TWO weeks on November 13, 2012! 2,000 point milestone reached in December 2, 2012!


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Questions & Answers | Problem Reports | Reviews | Comments, | Work Orders

Question Answered: 

danny, you could have a battery drain somewhere (since you did not mention a battery light, i am assuming the alternator is good) but check the alternator and battery first. The rapid clicking is the starter solenoid trying to work with a low charge. possible that the battery is totally drained again.


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Question Answered: 

how do you know that it got disengaged? is the traction control light on? if so, the traction control computer may have detected a fault and turned off traction control as a fail-safe way to drive.


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Question Answered: 

that is correct, it may be the key (or key reader) that is intermittently acting up...i would recommend going to the dealer and having it properly diagnosed and repaired...


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Question Answered: 

ddc, your truck acts like it is going to run at 200rpm??? it is barely idling at 400! did you modify this vortec engine? there is NO carburator! and seriously...did it actually run fine for a day or two? any check engine light on? if so, please let me know what the code(s) are...thanks...


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Question Answered: 

Cindy, do you live in a landscape with rolling hills? are you driving with a full load of passengers or cargo? do you drive with both feet? one on the throttle and the other on the brakes? hard to tell from your frequency (average months between brake job is eight) but brake pads are the highest wear item on a vehicle after tires. what concerns me is why only the drivers rotor and caliper is having issues while the passenger rotor and caliper is not. you did not specify which brake hose was replaced or which one was recommended again on september 2012. either the brake hose on the drivers front is bad or the line from the master cylinder to the drivers brake hose is clogged...suggest that it be bled along with the whole brake system.


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Question Answered: 

oil pan gasket leaking STILL LEAKING after SIX times??? find out exactly where it is leaking from...possible crank seal, valve cover gasket, cam seal, rear main seal...metal to metal clicking sound is not good, have the oil pressure checked (at normal temperature, oil pressure should be 4.3psi at idle and 43-78psi at 3000rpm) if not = BAD Oil pump...if okay = highly possible clogged oil galley (highly possible due to the engine flush...all the gunk may fall into an orifice and clog something ...starving a passageway of oil)... continue running in this condition and you WILL have crankshaft issues!


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Question Answered: 

sounds like your rack and pinion bushings are damaged and loose...causing that clunking noise whenever you turn the steering wheel. check for bushing play inside the rack and pinion clamp-downs and possible oil leak causing it to deteriorate.


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Question Answered: 

first of all, STOP spraying brake fluid all over your distributor cap and injectors! then, check the insides of the distributor cap to see if it is soaked with brake fluid and WD40 (which i think it is already) i suspect that the ignition pickup is fouled up in your distributor and you need to clean it out.


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Question Answered: 

the fuel injection pressure dampers purpose is to absorb the fuel pumps pulsing of fuel into the fuel rail...that way you will have an even pressure instead of a pulsing fuel pressure.


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Question Answered: 

if your motor stops making noise while operating, your motor is bad...if your motor does not stop making noise and you hit that flat spot, then your regulator is bad...either way, i would replace both so it will work for another eight more years!


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