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United Auto Service Center
Are you sure that the blower is actually stopping, and that it isn't changing settings? Generally, what happens is that you will have the blower set to the dash vents, but when you increase engine load it will switch to the windshield defroster. Check to see if that is what is happening on your car. If it is, then most likely you have a vacuum leak in in the system that actuates the vacuum motors for the blend doors. This kind of work can get pricey, depending on where the leak is.
It may be a little steep, but not unreasonable. Without knowing exactly what is being replaced, it's hard to say for sure, but this is definitely one of those kinds of jobs where two bad things could happen: 1) many parts will not survive dis-assembly, so you're better off assuming that they will need to be replaced. 2) Many parts that do survive dis-assembly and re-assembly may not last long after, because we're talking about 10 year old plastic and rubber parts. My gut feeling is that this is probably on the up-and-up, and if you shop around, you may get a better initial quote, but chances are you're going to get call backs from the shop halfway through the job telling you that it is going to be extra for one unanticipated cost or another and you'll end up paying the same in the end. Assuming that they have a comprehensive parts list, I would say go with this quote, it sounds like they've already figured in what could go wrong.
Generally, no, but... It depends on conditions when the belt breaks. What I mean by this is, if the engine was being over-revved at the time the belt broke (say you accidentally downshifted from fifth to second instead of fourth while trying to pass on the freeway) then there is a good chance that you could do valve damage. Otherwise, you are safe.
I don't recommend trying this one yourself. Dual AC systems can be a nightmare to service, even in a shop. If you don't know exactly where the leak is, and you don't have any leak detection equipment, you're just asking for trouble.
Replace? Definitely not. However, a fuel system cleaning, such as a BG induction system service, could be recommended and may b e beneficial. How much are they asking for this service? If it is in the neighborhood of $80-120, then they are offering a cleaning service. Replacing the injectors would cost several hundred dollars.
Sounds like you need a new oil pan. I can't tell you how many of these I've replaced on VWs. I recommend getting it fixed before you cause engine damage (had that happen to a customer on a Beetle.)
Do you know if you have spark? If so, do you have fuel?
Yes, along with any other point in the system that holds refrigerant. It will be cheapest in the long run to have the system tested for leaks. If you charged it with a refrigerant with dye, you may be able to find the leak point with a UV light.
I've seen this before on these and VW vehicles. Often times, the mounts for the adjusters inside the headlamp assembly will break, allowing the bulb to vibrate excessively, and consequently, the bulbs to burn out. Unfortunately, the only fix is new headlamp assemblies. If the light pattern oscillates as you drive down the road, or you can't aim your headlamps, then they are broken. Moisture intrusion if the covers are not replaced, as well as improper installation (touching the glass) is also a possibility.
By the pressure sensor, I assume that you mean the Delta Pressure Feedback EGR sensor (DPFE.) If the sensor keeps melting after replacing the catalytic converter, then it sounds like you have some other restriction in the exhaust, or another issue that has caused damage to your new catalytic converter. These are the most likely causes. As far as the brakes, I'm afraid to guess without having seen the car. Start by checking for contamination of the brake fluid. If anyone has topped off the reservoir with anything other than brake fluid, this could cause issues like what you are describing, as well as serious, and expensive, damage.