More About Points »
On the passenger side on the firewall.
This truck does have a scan port and it is NOT on the drivers side by the brake booster it IS on the passenger side hanging loosely on the firewall.Really doesn't even look like a port,but a connector that might plug into something that isn't. The other post re: not even needing a scan tool is accurate,since turning the key on and off three time then leaviing it on will cause the check engine light to flash the codes,thus doing the same thing that the tool I have does for free.
You can pull the codes yourself without a scanner on this truck.Put the key in and turn it on and off three times fast.After the third time,leave it on and watch the check engine light.It will flash intermittently.Write down each two digit code,then you can Google what they mean or get back to me,I have them written down somewhere.
More than likely the plastic shifter bushing on the linkage underneath the truck are worn out.I had this same problem,had to buy one at a dealer,that lucklily I was able to still get.The rest were available at any parts store in the Dorman HELP section. Not a big job,but will have to crawl under the truck and take the shifter linkage apart to replace.
As said by an earlier post,it is located on the passenger side under the hood,on the firewall.It looks like a pc board with two wires connected to it,only held on with two screws.A ten minute fix and not expensive at all.Just replaced mine.
And I do MEAN brand NEW as in the entire cooling system,thermostat,(Safety type 190degree),Water pump,ALL hoses,heater core,blower motor,serpentine belt,everything and anything imaginable from stem to stern has been replaced.Also bled the system by elevating it about four feet in the air.One thing I might mention,originally it had a single core radiator,which was replaced with a dual or double core.If I sit parked and rev the engine it will in fact get REALLY HOT,but once I begin to drive it is as if there is not enough coolant passing thru the heater core?There is absolutely no restrictions in the system and this is about to set me to a looney bin.Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.It is constant too,once driving the air goes to tepid,but parked and revved it will get HOT!I have even placed a peice of wood in front of the radiator to block off 75 percent of the radiators ability to cool,and made sure the engine does not overheat,yet still cannot get the heater to blow HOT air when I am moving.
Check your fuses first.But if thats not the problem then sending unit is inside the tank.Might just need the connector taken off and cleaned.
Probably the linkage grommets worn out.If the motor is working,then you know the switch is good to go.You are going to have to remove the cowl and look inside.Simple fix.
You ain't going to like this,but you are going to have to start by removing the wiper arms.Both of them.Then the cowl,which isn't really all that bad,but the only way to gain access to where you need to be.Once the cowl is removed I can garauntee the white plastic grommets that hold everything together have detiorated.Get used to it,if you plan on keeping the truck,mine go out about once every six months or even less,depending on how often I use the wipers. They are readily available by Dorman,Windshied Wiper lingage connectors.You have to buy a pack of assorted ones and if you have never replaced them,I suggest you do ALL of them now,which will most likely take two to three packs.Then I would keep another pack or two on hand,since the one that connects mine to the motor is constantly wearing out. Other than this,mine would only need a paint job and be like new.Good luck with it. Since you say the wiper won't come off,heck just hacksaw it off and go to a bone yard and get you another one.I am sure you could do that for alot less than the sixty dollars the shop wants.
Could be the ignition coil.