Master

Master

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Jim Taddei

Oakland, CA

I have been in the automotive field since 1975 and have accumulated over 25 years of experience with General Motors products achieving the designation as a GM Master Technician. I am also currently certified and an ASE Master Technician, and hold an Advanced California Smog Check License. I have been the lead technician and team leader at a multi-line dealership. After leaving the dealership I spent a couple of years working in an independent shop and now find myself applying my experience for your benefit at RepairPal. My training includes numerous GM classes and college courses which resulted in an AA degree in Automotive Technology.


Recent Activity

Questions & Answers | Problem Reports | Reviews | Comments, | Work Orders

Question Answered: 

The RepairPal estimator indicates the $150 estimate is a bit high, (http://repairpal.com/estimator/results) perhaps there are some diagnostic charges includes in your estimate.


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Question Answered: 

The problem could be with the anti-theft system. Please visit the following link for more information: http://repairpal.com/car-wont-start-because-of-anti-theft-system-that-uses-raised-chip-key-032


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Question Answered: 

The temp gauge signal comes from the PCM which relays the signal from the engine temperature sensor. I would suspect the temp gauge is no longer working due to an internal cluster fault. If the coolant sensor signal to the PCM is OK when monitored with a scan tool, repair or replacement of the instrument panel cluster will be necessary. Please note if the original cluster is repaired, no programming should be necessary. If the cluster is replaced, the new cluster will require programming.


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Question Answered: 

If you cannot pull the key out with a pliers, The lock cylinder will need to be removed and disassembled to remove the broken key.


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Question Answered: 

It is not uncommon for the temperature gauge to rise a bit when the vehicle is stopped, before the cooling fan turns on. If the gauge is going in to the red, it could be that the electric cooling fan is not working properly.


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Question Answered: 

Your warranty company may be calling the hydraulic valve assembly the "ASE Control Unit" and the electronic brain the "ABS Module" But these names can be used interchangeably. I would recommend you have your insurance company explain what they mean by "ABS Control Unit".


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Question Answered: 

Most manufactures would consider 1qt of oil every 1,000 miles normal usage. That being said, it may be the oil control rings on the pistons are not working as they should causing oil to burn during the combustion process. It may be possible to clean the rings using a "top engine cleaner". Please talk with you local technician to see if they think this will work for you.


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Question Answered: 

The most common reason for the battery light to come on would be a failure in the charging system. It could be the alternator, but with the cost involved in replacing the alternator, I would recommend having the problem diagnosed before simply replacing it.


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Question Answered: 

Your flashing check engine light indicates an engine misfire. You should have the problem diagnosed and repaired as soon a possible. A flashing check engine indicates an engine misfire severe enough to damage the catalytic convertor. Please using the following link to find a repair shop near you -http://repairpal.com/toyota-within-10-miles-of-06770


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Question Answered: 

Check to see if your key looks worn. If so, try a new key and see if that works better. If your key is worn and you don't have a spare, have a new key made using the factory key codes. Don't simply have a copy made of your worn out key.


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