More About Points »
some steam is good and other steam is bad, if your vehicle was running hot and coolant was sprayed all over the engine compartment you can wipe or wait until the engine warms up and it will disapate.When you change a thermostate you will replace the loss fluid either in the overflow bottle or radiator. Now being that you also replaced the radiator yes bleeding/ lettting the air out of the system is recommended. Steam that is continuing to show up in the engine area may be signs of another problem. How long was the car running hot?, why the new radiator, and thermostate? Some vehicles have a thermostate bleeder valve too. Bleeding the system after a cooling system part replacement is always recommended, good job , are you a do it yourselfer????
Hi firstly lets go the most inexpensive route, that is when did the problem start, and are you driving in a dirty or dusty area? I ask these question and one more have you ever raised your hood, because there are little small black rubber lines located in the hood area, they provide the means for the fluid to flow to your windsheild.Sometimes over time these rubber lines do have little tears and begin to leak wiper fluid in the hood area, thereby creating a low pressure output on the windsheild, do a visual first. Also debri and dust will clog up the little eyelets (where the fluid comes out of), they get "junk" in them. For this you may want to carefully take a needle or small point(safety pin) and just lightly attempt to remove dirt from the eyelet, then turn the wiper washer on and check your work. Things like going and buying a pump or other parts should only be done after you have exhausted all the human things to do (smile). It really sounds like one of the little rubber hoses may have sprung a leak or dirt in the eyelet. Sometimes you may need a helper to look at the rubber lines to spot a leak while the hood is raised.
check electrical light connections, make sure the bulb is secure and tight, make sure the area around the lense is secured properly,make sure its the correct bulb, how long has this been happening, under what conditions do you notice the blinking light bulb, what is the weather like when this happens is it wet or windy, do you travel on unpaved areas???????, or have you recently had a stranger or novice change the bulb?? try a good visual check first, then see if something is moving that should not be moving, that could be shaking the bulb,/lense, light switch included in the checks too. headlight bulbs are sensitive to a lot of unneccessary moving, they have to be secure in the lense cover (halogen) and sealed beams brackets.
Dont spend a lot of money on refrigerant, get the system check, by a professional. A leak detection test,also hoses condensor, compressor, and other vital things to consider, otherwise your $$$$ money goes into the air which can be harmful. This system has numerous important parts, that all have to work together to keep you cool, dont guess have testing done, and dont just buy parts that you dont need.
22,700 is considered a very low mileage to be considering a power steering fluid change, but always use the manufacturers recommendations for fluid changes, and levels. Are you having problems with low/leakage or discolored power steering fluid? First check the level of power steering fluid with the cap, it has writing or fluid level markings on the stem/(dipstick) of the power steering cap, on level ground. It may read full hot or full cold. Use this time to also check for leaks, and rubber hose wear, your small owners manual should specify the correct fluid levels. Now problems with a stiff or hard to turn steering wheel can be a sign of other issues, (such as rack and pinion, power steering pump, malfunction,and others), have the system checked by a professional.
which gasket firstly, you have a head gasket, thermostate gasket, water pump gasket, but for some reason I think you may be talking about a head gasket,(let me know which one) This type of job depends on your skill level, time, proper tools(dont get started and then have to go borrow some tools, loss of time) even for a novice this is no cake walk if you have a lack in any mechanical area such as following directions, or reading diagrams this may not be the job for you. If you do decided to do it yourself take a picture of the engine before breaking it down, set aside a lot of time, and patience, if this is a head gasket job the game of memory is very important. If it is a thermostate or water pump gasket leakage you might can handle it, but water pump gasket replacement may come with some tight hand position spots you will have to deal with and belts to remove, If it is a thermostate gasket it is pretty simple on most vehicles most times a DIY job. look out for accendentally breaking bolts and knuckles, good luck.
I totally agree this is not a do it yourself, aligments are never diy, and you need to either return to the shop and discuss your problems, or get references from qualified techs as to a good shop to go to, last but not least a good tire shop may have an alignment machine, and finally the dealership can assist you.
Rencently I bought a older honda accord that had 89000 orginal miles and a one owner. One of the only services that they had not done was at the least a transmission flush and fill. I had no problems with the transmission, but the fluid was a bit dark in color. The transmission is so important to proper operation of your vehicle that a simple transmission flush should be done at the recommended intervals. Sometimes if you wait other problems can arise. Your honda requires only honda trans fluid, I priced around and ended up at the dealer with a coupon and the trans fluid flush and fill, which takes all of 30-45 minutes was performed, and it only cost $77.00 dollars. If as you say there are numerous drivers, rest assured no one drives the same, it is far more better to do a simple transmission flush and fill if you are near or past the recommended fluid change intervals.This is due to the fact that it has been tested by the manufacturer the life of the tranny fluid, and burnt trans fluid does not lubricate as well as good fluid, secondly, a rebuilt transmission is very costly for most import vehicles, and thirdly for your own piece of mind having it done can prevent unseen problems to the eyes of a novice, and finally, some of the honda vehicles do have transmission computers that can go bad and cause sluggishness, and slow take offs. These vehicles are great and preventive maintence is key to the longevity of any vehicle.
When a person ask about essential parts for their vehicle, I always tell them to check at the dealership first,for price and availablity, we know that the highest price may come from the dealership, but most times they are OEM parts, and are directly related to or with the manufacturer. This is one of those important parts, and my suggestion is that you price compare shop first. Then availability, shipping and taxes on the part. There are numerous online parts stores and local parts store in which to choose from, but only a few will have the part in stock, others can get you the part within s few days. Also check at the dealershiip for recalls, because maybe there have been a few thousand owners with the same problem. If you bought the vehicle as the second owner you may not have gotten the recall notice.
The radiator reservoir on most vehicles is the plastic bottle that holds extra antifreeze. Most all cars have on the side of the "reservoir bottle", small fluid level markings, some will have the word "max or min"; other markings will be small lines, and some may the words cold and hot engraved in the plastic..It can be a little difficult to sometimes see the "plastic engraved fluid level markings, and because of the color of the resovoir bottle, take your time and look closely and on all sides and top areas of the reservoir bottle, ( and check for cracks/leaks on the bottle, remember it is plastic). You always want the level of antifreeze in the bottle to be where the manufacturer recommends ( look in your "little" glove box and take out the owners manual, and look up cooling system, and most manuals will show you a nice little picture. Now if you have no book, ask a more "knowledagable" car person, they should be able to show and tell you what the marking on the bottle are within seconds, its just that easy. If you dont know a knowledgable car person the "local parts store employees will assist you, and some local repair shops will show you the correct fluid levels. Most manufacturers recommend the MAX/COLD/ highest marking on the bottle as being adequate for your vehicle not to run HOT.