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Is it reading full or is it reading past full? It may be a faulty gauge sending unit but in general, when a fuel guage signal wire shorts to ground, the gauge needle will read past full or 'pegged'. Do you have a lot of miles on the car?
Check to see if the roller switch that controls the brightness of the dash lights is separate from the switch you replaced. This component could be shorted. remove it and inspect the connector. sometimes a loose wire can arc and if it has for a while, odds are good something will be black or burnt. Otherwise you may be in for a bit of looking...
If it's a regular 2-wire solenoid, one wire will be hot with key on engine off. To test the circuit, connect a test light between the two wires with the solenoid disconnected. If it lights up the circuit's good. To test the solenoid, you will not need the key on so turn it off. first (this is off the car) connect an extra piece of vacuum tube to the side of the solenoid that's connected to the intake manifold and see if you can suck any air through it. If air passes, the solenoid is bad. If not, take two jumper wires and connect one lead to the side of the connector corresponding to the 12V wire on the car. Connect the other lead to the remaining post in the connector. Hook the 12V wire to the pos side of the battery. While listening to the solenoid, touch the remaining lead to the negative post on the battery. If the solenoid clicks, try to suck on the tube again. If air passes now, the solenoid is good. In my experience, most of these problems are related to loose pin connections inside the connector. On EGR solenoid problems, always check for carbon that may be clogging EGR ports in the manifold. You will need to remove the valve to do so. Good luck
Take it to the dealer and have them check warranty coverage. If you bought the vehicle new, it should be covered.
Have you ever owned a vehicle with a four cylinder engine?
Some vehicles do have a low oil level warning light on the dash but I do not think yours is one of them. If the engine emits bluish smoke from the exhaust on cold start, the most likely cause would be either worn exhaust valve guides or dried up valve stem seals in the cylinder head. When an engine is shut off, oil that is pumped to the valve train can remain in the top of the head for a short time before draining to the pan. This is when some of the oil can leak down past the seal, between the valve and guide and into the cylinder. When you start the engine, the oil that leaked into the cylinder will burn with the fuel and cause the smoking.
To my knowledge, there is no such safety switch on your vehicle. Have you checked the fuses near the battery? Depending on the extent of the damage to the van, some wiring may have gotten pinched and shorted. There is usually a large, high amp fuse (80 to 100 amp) located in a fuse box near the battery or on the battery cable itself. It either looks like a very large mini-fuse or it is a small box with a window on top and is held on with small bolts. This MAIN fuse if blown, will disconnect the battery from the vehicle
I'm going to assume that you can tell the difference between a knock and an exhaust leak and I have to say also that oil pressure is more likely to go down as the engine heats up because (non-synthetic) oil will become thinner as it becomes warmer which generally leads to lower oil pressure. An engine knock that occurs on a cold engine and fades after warm-up is usually caused by wear on the cylinder walls and is most commonly called "piston slap". Some manufacturers have specified an acceptable amount of time before fade however, this is one of those things that does not get better and indicates possible engine failure on the horizon. If what you are actually hearing is more like a tick or a tap, a faulty lifter may be the problem or possibly even the exhaust leak one of the others mentioned (can you smell exhaust?). This would be located at the exhaust manifold to cylinder head gasket on a single cylinder. A good tool for finding a knock that can be found at any auto parts store is a stethoscope with a thin metal rod on the end of the tube. If you cannot hear any knocking through the earpiece, start looking for that exhaust leak.
If this is a sedan, and the dome light is not staying on, you may have a lamp on inside the trunk compartment. The dash light should not by itself cause a battery drain but a light bulb will. Just to be safe, I would tell you to remove the trunk bulb because aside from doing a parasitic draw test with an ammeter, the only way to know if the light is turning off is to climb inside the trunk and shut the lid. It does sound like you may have a bad door switch, however I have seen some problems on these older Kias with door striker adjustments. The door switch is inside the latch on these and requires replacement of the latch assembly. Try this: from outside the car, try to keep your eye on the door ajar lamp and push each door closed. If the light goes out, the door may need to be adjusted. If nothing changes, the most likely cause is one of the switches. Most likely the driver door. Good luck
not sure on this one but sometimes you can trace the vacuum hose to the charcoal canister and the LDP is generally near it. The pump should have at least two large hoses (about 3/4 inside dia.) One of them will go to the charcoal canister and the other will probably be routed to the frame in the vicinity because this one is merely vented to atmosphere (except when the computer commands it to close) so the tank will not build pressure. One of the most common cause for an LDP trouble code is related to a restricted vent hose due to debris. could be a spider.