Technician

Technician

140 points

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Rojo1

Canyon, TX

I graduated high school in 1990 and gained my ASE Master Tech cert in 1994. My father has run a small shop in a small Texas town of about 11,000 for the better part of 30 years. He specializes in air-cooled VW''s and has a very loyal following. For the majority of my career, I turned my wrenches for dealerships in New Mexico. Manufacturers include Mitsubishi, Hyundai, Subaru, Mazda, and Kia but I spent better than a quarter of my career in my father's shop repairing air cools and whatever else rolled in the door. I am strong in automotive systems diagnosis. I take great pride in my work and value my reputation. Before offering advice on a question, I will always ask a few of my own. This way I won't waste any of your time getting your vehicle back on the road.


Recent Activity

Questions & Answers | Problem Reports | Reviews | Comments, | Work Orders

Question Answered: 

Have you checked for a restriction between the radiator and the recovery tank? If cooling system sealant has been used in the system, a little of it may have made its way out and into the tube. Most of this stuff is designed to harden the instant it contacts atmosphere. (this will only happen after the substance has been in solution with antifreeze.) Try taking the tube off of the radiator outlet then see if you can blow air through it to the recovery tank


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Question Answered: 

Is your engine overheating or losing coolant?


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Question Answered: 

THERE MAY BE A BLEEDER VALVE THAT NEEDS TO BE OPEN IN ORDER TO PURGE AIR FROM THE SYSTEM WHILE FILLING.


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Question Answered: 

MAN! SOUNDS LIKE A GUESSING GAME AT THE DEALER. SO HERE'S THE DEAL: OPEN THE HOOD, START THE ENGINE, AND TURN ON THE A/C. IF THE COMPRESSOR IS RUNNING AT ALL, **DO NOT ADD REFRIGERANT! OVERCHARGING THE SYSTEM MAY DESTROY THE COMPRESSOR!! RECOMMENDED REFRIGERANT PRESSURE IS ONLY A GUIDELINE BECAUSE PRESSURE IS DIRECTLY PROPORTIONAL TO TEMPERATURE (ONE DEGREE [F] IS EQUAL TO ONE P S I).-----RECOMMENDED PRESSURE' ON A 75 DEGREE DAY IS NOT THE SAME AS RECOMMENDED PRESSURE ON A 95 DEGREE DAY. ONE MORE IMPORTANT THING ABOUT REFRIGERANT CHARGING: IF YOU DO HAVE TO ADD A CAN TO THE SYSTEM, **DO NOT TURN THE CAN UPSIDE DOWN UNLESS YOU HAVE ENOUGH EXPERIENCE TO KNOW WHERE AND HOW! THE CHARGING TOOL CONNECTS TO THE TOP OF THE CAN. IF YOU COULD SEE INSIDE THE CAN, THE TOP OF IT WOULD BE VAPOR WHILE THE BOTTOM IT WOULD BE LIQUID. IN THE A/C SYSTEM, THE LOW SIDE, OR SUCTION SIDE, (LARGE TUBE) CARRIES REFRIGERANT AS VAPOR. VAPOR CAN BE COMPRESSED WITHOUT A PROBLEM. THE HIGH SIDE, , (SMALL TUBE) CARRIES IT AS LIQUID. **LIQUID DOES NOT COMPRESS. THE CHARGING PORT IS IN THE VAPOR LINE SO DON,T ADD LIQUID TO THE VAPOR SIDE BY TURNING THE CAN OVER. GO AROUND TO THE RH SIDE OF THE TRUCK NEAR THE FIREWALL AND LOCATE THE RECEIVER/DRIER (ACCUMULATOR) THIS IS A CYLINDRICAL TANK USED TO REMOVE MOISTURE DURING NORMAL OPERATION OF THE A/C. FIND THE LARGE REFRIGERANT TUBE COMING FROM THE REC/DRIER AND PLACE YOUR HAND ON THIS TUBE. IT SHOULD BE VERY COLD TO THE TOUCH. NOW LOCATE THE SMALL REFRIGERANT TUBE IN THE SAME VICINITY. EXERCISE CAUTION!! THIS TUBE SHOULD BE VERY HOT TO THE TOUCH SO PLACE YOUR HAND CLOSE BUT NOT ON THIS LINE. IF THE BIG TUBE IS COLD ENOUGH TO HAVE WATER CONDENSING ON THE SURFACE, AND THE SMALL TUBE IS TOO HOT TO TOUCH, THEN THE REFRIGERATION SYSTEM IS WORKING PROPERLY. IF THIS IS THE CASE AND YOU ARE GETTING WARM AIR FROM THE VENTS, IT MEANS YOUR CABIN TEMPERATURE BLEND DOOR IS NOT MOVING TO THE COLD POSITION. DID YOU SAY THAT THE DEALER REPLACED THE AIR BOX?


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Question Answered: 

HOW DOES YOUR BATTERY LOOK? ARE THE CABLE CLAMPS DIRTY OR CORRODED? ARE THE CLAMPS LOOSE? ALSO, CHECK THE OTHER END OF THE POSITIVE CABLE. IT GOES TO THE STARTER. BEST BET--CORRODED BATTERY CABLES. THE BATTERY MAY ALSO BE LOW ON WATER. HAVE YOUR BATTERY CHARGED AND TESTED. AND THAT MAY BE ALL YOU NEED. GOOD LUCK AND LET ME KNOW. THE FACT THAT IT WON'T START AFTER KEY OFF AND SEEMS BETTER AFTER SITTING DOES INDICATE A POSSIBLE PROBLEM IN THE CHARGING SYSTEM BUT BATTERY CLAMPS AND CABLES THAR ARE CORRODED CREATE RESISTANCE THAT CAN PREVENT THE ALTERNATOR FROM KEEPING A GOOD CHARGE ON THE BATTERY, AND MAKE SURE ALL CONNECTIONS ARE TIGHT SO HERE IS WHAT NEEDS TO BE DONE: CHECK FOR CORROSION AND IF PRESENT, CLEAN USING A MIXTURE OF 1 /4 CUP SODIUM BICARB (BAKING SODA) TO A GALLON OF WATER AND POUR SOME INTO A SPRAY BOTTLE TO USE TOGETHER WITH A METAL BRISTLE BRUSH IF CORROSION IS VERY BAD, YOU MAY HAVE TO REPLACE THE CLAMPS AND POSSIBLY CABLES--DEPENDS HOW LONG THE CORROSION WAS ATTACHED. IF IT HAS GOTTEN INTO THE CABLE ITSELF, IT MAY NEED TO BE TRIMMED OR REPLACED TO STOP THE CORRODING PROCESS.


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Question Asked: 

MY WIFE WAS IN AN ACCIDENT AND I LOST CONNECTION WHILE I WAS GONE. STILL WANT TO HELP IF NEEDED. PLEASE REPOST SO I CAN GET BACK TO YOU


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Question Answered: 

DO THE BLEND DOORS IN THE DASH MOVE WHEN COMMANDED? IN OTHER WORDS, ASSUMING THE A/C WORKS BECAUSE OTHERWISE YOU MIGHT NOT BE ABLE TO ANSWER THE QUESTION, IF YOU DECIDE TO CHANGE THE POSITION OF THE FAN i.e. VENT TO DEFROST OR FLOOR TO FACE, DOES IT DO WHAT IT'S SUPPOSED TO DO? THE REASON I ASK IS THAT THOSE DOORS ARE MOVED BY ACTUATORS MOUNTED UNDER THE DASH THAT OPERATE ON ENGINE VACUUM. WHAT I THINK YOU HAVE IS A VACUUM LEAK. AND THIS IS NO SMALL LEAK! IF THE LEAK WAS VERY SMALL, THE VENT PROBLEM PROBABLY WOULDN'T SHOW ITSELF. ONE OF THE EASIER WAYS TO CHECK IS TO FIND A PIECE OF SMALL DIAMETER HOSE LIKR 1/4 INCH TO 3/16 INCH INSIDE DIAMETER OR SO (YOU MAY FIND SOMETHING LIKE THAT AT A HARDWARE STORE OR YOU MAY BE ABLE TO USE SOME VACUUM HOSE FROM AN AUTO PARTS STORE.) ALSO GET A SMALL FUNNEL THAT WILL ATTACH TO THE END OF THE HOSE. ONCE ASSEMBLED, YOU CAN USE IT TO FIND THE LEAK. WARM UP THE ENGINE SO IT WILL IDLE THEN SIMPLY HOLD THE FUNNEL TOO YOUR EAR AND PROBE AROUND THE TOP OF THE ENGINE WITH THE OTHER END., BEING CAREFUL TO AVOID THE FAN AND BELTS, AND LISTEN FOR A HISSING SOUND. ANOTHER WAY TO FIND A LARGE VACUUM LEAK IS TO TAKE A COMMON SPRAY BOTTLE, PUT SOME WATER IN IT, SET THE SPRAY FOR DISTANCE AND USE THE WATER AS A PROBE--IF YOU FIND THE LEAK, IT WILL TAKE THE WATER INTO THE INTAKE AND YOUR IDLE SPEED SHOULD SLOW DOWN FOR A MOMENT. BUT BEFORE YOU DO ANY OF THAT, OPEN THE HOOD WITH THE ENGINE OFF AND TAKE A GOOD LOOK AT THE LARGE BLACK RUBBER HOSE THAT RUNS BETWEEN THE AIR CLEANER AND THE ENGINE. THIS IS THE INTAKE HOSE AND IT SHOULD HAVE FOLDS OR RIDGES IN IT TO HELP IT BEND. KIND OF LIKE AN ACCORDION I GUESS. THIS TYPE OF HOSE IS PRONE TO CRACKING, USUALLY AT THE BOTTOM OF THE FOLD OR ON THE VALLEY AS OPPOSED TO THE PEAK. GET A FLASHLIGHT AND TAKE A REALLY GOOD LOOK ALONG THE ENTIRE HOSE. THE OTHER QUICK THING IS TO LOOK FOR A HOSE THAT IS ABOUT 1/2" TO 3/4" IN DIAMETER RUNNING THE VALVE COVER TO THE INTAKE MANIFOLD AND MAKE SURE IT ISN'T DISCONNECTED OR BROKEN.


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Question Answered: 

FIRST, TO ANSWER YOUR QUESTION ABOUT THE PART NUMBER: I THINK THE PART YOU GOT HAD BEEN SITTING ON THE SHELF FOR A WHILE. I BELIEVE THAT NUMBER HAS BEEN SUPERSEDED AND IS NO LONGER A GOOD NUMBER. THE PART HOWEVER IS PROBABLY CORRECT. HAVE YOU KEPT UP WITH YOUR MILEAGE SINCE THE VEHICLE WAS NEW? WAS THE MISS YOU REPORTED FIXED BY REPLACEMENT OF THE FP REGULATOR? WAS ANYTHING ELSE REPLACED ON THE FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM? THERE ARE A NUMBER OF THINGS THAT CAN CONTRIBUTE TO A LOSS OF MILEAGE...HOW MANY MILES HAVE YOU PUT ON THE VEHICLE SINCE NEW? ALSO, HAVE YOU KEPT UP WITH YOUR MAINTENANCE ?


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Question Answered: 

A cracked master cylinder is an unusual problem to have after that many miles. Have you had any work done on the vehicle recently? If not, have you been noticing a different feel in your brake pedal?


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Question Answered: 

PUSHROD IS CORRECT; A LOW OIL LEVEL WILL NOT CAUSE YOUR CHECK ENGINE LAMP TO ILLUMINATE. THE KNOCK SENSOR AND FUEL LEVEL SENSOR WILL ILLUMINATE THE LAMP DEPENDING ON THE NATURE OF THE MALFUNCTION. HOWEVER, NEITHER OF THOSE ITEMS WILL CAUSE NOR WILL THEY BE AFFECTED BY A LOW ENGINE OIL LEVEL. SO YOU ACTUALLY HAVE THREE SEPARATE PROBLEMS BUT SINCE YOU ARE CONCERNED MOST WITH THE OIL LEVEL, LET'S TALK ABOUT THAT. HAVE YOU NOTICED ANY OIL ON THE GROUND WHERE YOU NORMALLY PARK? DO YOU SMELL ANYTHING OR SEE ANY SMOKE AROUND THE VEHICLE WHEN THE ENGINE IS WARMED UP AND RUNNING? (THIS WOULD BE EASIER TO NOTICE IF YOU DRIVE THE VEHICLE 10 OR 15 MILES, THEN PARK SOMEPLACE OUT OF THE WIND. SMOKE WOULD TEND TO BE VISIBLE UNDER THE HOOD OR ANYPLACE ALONG THE EXHAUST SYSTEM UNDER THE CAR. ANOTHER QUESTION I WOULD LIKE TO ASK YOU IS IF THE VEHICLE HAS BEEN IDLING ROUGH OR POSSIBLY HIGHER THAT NORMAL. IF THIS IS THE CASE, YOU MAY BE ABLE TO FIX IT YOURSELF FOR NOT A LOT OF MONEY.


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Question Answered: 

DOES THE ENGINE TURN WHEN YOU TRY TO START IT OR IS THERE NO RESPONSE OF ANY KIND?


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