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does your car stall or misfire? if it stalls, try cleaning the throttle body. if its a 6 cyl it may be the idle control valve. if its a 4 cyl misfire (usually cyl 2 but may be 3) the ignition module may be defective. more info is needed. your issue is not clear. i REALLY doubt you need a coil on this model car!!!
Camshaft Position Sensor, Checking NoteUse only gold-plated terminals when servicing terminals in harness connector of Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor -G40-. Special tools and workshop equipment required t Multimeter. t Wiring diagram. Test requirements l The Motronic Engine Control Module (ECM) - J220- fuses OK. l All electrical consumers such as, lights and rear window defroster, switched off. l Vehicles with automatic transmission, shift selector lever into position “P” or “N”. l A/C switched off. l Ground (GND) connections between engine/transmission/chassis OK. l Ignition switched off. Test procedure – Perform a preliminary check to verify the customers complaint. Refer to → Chapter. Start diagnosis – Remove the engine cover with air filter. – Disconnect the Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor -G40- electrical harness connector -arrow-. – Switch the ignition on. – Using a Multimeter, Check the Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor -G40- electrical harness connector terminals 1 to 3 for voltage. Specified value: about 5.0 V – Switch the ignition off. If the specification was not obtained: Checking wiring If the manufacturers test box is being used. Perform the following step. – Install the Adapter Cable (121-pin) -VAG1598/31- → Engine Mechanical, Fuel Injection and Ignition; Rep. Gr.24; Removal and Installation. If the manufacturers test box is not being used. Perform the following step. – Remove the Motronic Engine Control Module (ECM) -J220-. Refer to → Chapter. – Using a Multimeter, Check the Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor -G40- electrical harness connector to the Motronic Engine Control Module (ECM) -J220- electrical harness connector T121 for resistance. Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor -G40- electrical harness connector terminals Motronic Engine Control Module (ECM) -J220- electrical harness connector T121 terminals or test box sockets 1 98 2 86 3 108 Specified value: 1.5 Ω Max. If the specified value was not obtained: – Check the wiring connection for an open circuit, short circuit to Battery (+) or Ground (GND). – Check the wiring connection for damage, corrosion, loose or broken terminals. – If necessary, repair the faulty wiring connection. If no malfunction is found in the wiring and voltage supply was OK: – Replace the Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor -G40-. – Erase the DTC memory. Refer to → Chapter. – Perform a road test to verify repair. If the DTC does not return: Repair complete, Generate readiness code. Refer to → Chapter. – End of diagnosis. If the DTC does return and no malfunction is detected in the wiring and the voltage supply was not OK: – Replace the Motronic Engine Control Module (ECM) -J220-. Refer to → Chapter. – Assembly is performed in the reverse of the removal. Final procedures After the repair work, the following work steps must be performed in the following sequence: 1 - Check the DTC memory → Chapter. 2 - If necessary, erase the DTC memory → Chapter. 3 - If the DTC memory was erased, generate readiness code → Chapter.
the fuel gauge and senders are diagnosable with a tester. an open circuit will default to show empty. this can be a bad sender, broken wire or a gauge. the techron approch may help if build up on the sender sweep is the problem but may take a while to show results. a great diag tool that can do cluster diag is available from www.ross-tech.com
this engine is know for oil pressure problems due to sludge build up. if the cam journals (not lobes) have wear marks you need an engine not a cam or head. if the car is worth putting an engine in then get it. try 1800vwparts for a used engine. i use them often, they are reasonable and reliable.
a flashing check engine light means the car is misfiring. driving like this can cause cat damage! vw and audi have recalls for defective ignition coils which are responsable for over 90% of all misfires on these cars. take it to the dealer, if its coils the repair (including diagnostics) is FREE
O M G ! you only put oil in "after" the oil light came on? in a bi-turbo motor? hope it was synthetic and not shoprite brand. but seriously, pull off the intercooler hoses to see if oil just "pours" out. if it does, your motor is comin' out for turbos (which must be replaced in pairs). have the whole engine/car condition gone over before dumping this kind of money.
are you using the same key? if you have an immobilizer, using a non programmed key would do this. if same key, check the fuel pump to see if you can hear it running and see if any trouble codes are stored in the engine module.
how long does this noise last? if it lasts at least 30 seconds it could be the "secondary air pump". if it winds down immediately it may be the starter bushing (part of the starter). if it plays "when the saints come marching in" check the back seat for a stowaway clown.
usually just corrosion on the hub. try a good swift kick to the tire, a mallet from behind the wheel or in extreme cases leave the lugs in but a few turns loose and move the car back and forth. use a wire brush to clean the corrosion once its off.
check your brake fluid level.