82
questions

I understand there are multiple gaskets and the only thing I know is that there is oil visible on top of the engine, although the oil levels don't seem to go very low (I check often just in case) Don't know if this info is useful but it's all I have right now - a mechanic told me it would probably be around 800 since they have to lift the engine out to get to the problem.

At first I can't turn the key at all. If I wait a few seconds it will turn one more click. Another few seconds and it goes all the way to the right but nothing happens. Around the 4th or 5th try it starts up. Don't think I can let this go on for too much longer before it plain doesn't start. Replaced the battery a few weeks ago so I know it's not that. It happens almost every time I start the car.

My car rattles a lot going over bumps, potholes. They quoted me $1700 to fix the rear struts. Is that crazy?

A/C stopped working - just blows warm air. I think they quoted me like $800 to replace it.....how much should I be paying please? Thank you!

I was told by the service station whoI know a long time, always fair. That my struts need to be replaced because of rust. $700.00. He told this last month when I replaced brakes. Prior to that he never mentined struts. Never had struts or ball joints replaced 140,000 miles.

the mechanic is my girlfriends father's high school buddy, just making sure it is a good price. he is usually fair, but ive been reading up and heard that 350 is a little high... just wondering if i should look for a new mechanic... thank you!

i hear a noise coming from the back of my car and was told it could be a rear wheel bearing.

where is it located

my check engine light blinks then it stays on then blinks again awhile later, and when i am going about 65 on the highway or i accelerate anytime it runs rough then it smooths out what could this be?

My car has 246,000 miles so I know I'm getting to the stage that some of the suspension could be needing some attention. My car has original struts and the brake pads are fine. The tires don't have feathering so I'm thinking it's time to replace some wheel bearings. Can they be greased or are they sealed?

The needle on my RPM gauge bounces up and down and my engine "studders" as my car is decelerating from higher speeds. I pull over and turn off the engine for a just few minutes, and it starts up nicely and runs smoothly, no problems at all (as long as I don't go over 60 mph). It sounds crazy, but I swear that on rainy days or when humidity is higher I can only get to 50 mph before it acts up. No check engine light ever comes on when this problem arises. I've had 4 oxygen sensors and spark plugs replaced so far. I have 105,000 miles.

The red light sensor on the dash board indicating your back up light are not working is still on. I replace the bulb, and now the back up light work but the sensor is still on. I notice it would be one then off, then a neighbor told me my back up lights on the passenger side did not work, so i had it replace.
Now the dash sensor stays on all the time now. Both back up lights work now.

The red light sensor on the dash board indicating your back up light are not working is still on. I replace the bulb, and now the back up light work but the sensor is still on. I notice it would be one then off, then a neighbor told me my back up lights on the passenger side did not work, so i had it replace.
Now the dash sensor stays on all the time now. Both back up lights work now.

the air bag is busted already

Some one told me it could just be a line going into it, I have gotten a couple estimates to replace the brake booster, but I don't know if I am getting the truth.